NinaYo401

I wasn’t convinced about the fuel cap. However, when the pump was new, I was noticing a hiss when removing the fuel cap. Im torn between purchasing a $30 turbine based off-brand fuel pump and not changing the filter, or the $100 Bosch, and possibly a filter, or just buying from a lifetime warranty supplier. The walbro is supposed to be very contaminant resistant, so I’m thinking my new fuel filter is still good.

I asked my mechanic about the issue. He said to try a loose gas cap. I did, but then began to smll gas, but I'll try to nigh wrench it tight. I'm looking at purchasing a Bosch 69430, but I'd hate to kill another pump. I'm pretty sure I'm looking at the Bosch nipple on the walbro pump, so it should swap fairly simply. Maybe the fuel filter should be changed also? I'm not convinced drilling a hole in the gas cap would be a wise solution.

So my walbro 255lph fuel pump is screaming bloody murder. I think I’m noticing some fuel lean sputtering. I might shop for another walbro, maybe the second time is the charm. And change the opparts off brand filter to a Mahle. It was getting loud after 45min, but now a few minutes at idle and it’s screaming like a banshee

I’m having the same issue with the loud pump. I just had it replaced too, with a welbro. I've read the welbro likes a thicker gauge line. Maybe I’ll go for the Bosch next time, but I’m interested in your experience.

2.0 or 2.2L?

It’s been raining heavy here for a week now. I took a 100 mile trip in my sedan 505 expecting to be home before the rain. Didn’t happen. went to retrieve my purse from the rear passenger floor, and it was soaked. Normally not an issue. i suspect the inner wheel housing hole to be the culprit. Is there a sunroof drain or anything in this area. i pulled up some carped to reveal a beautiful solid white factory painted floor. either the sunroof which is non op, or the inner wheel housing should be strong contenders for this issue. there was a true puddle. Normally I don’t drive in the rain and avoid puddles

I still haven’t taken a look at my calipers. Thank you Arc. I picked up a pizza.

I was driving to the city yesterday, and noticed mid route that my instrument cluster brake light was on. I remember seeing a disconnected brake pads sensor when rotating my front tires. I pulled over at the closest gas station, reached up where the cable was zip tied to the brake hose. Sure enough it was loose, and possibly touching the chassis. Obviously this completed the circuit, possibly causing my indicator. allowing it to hang near the LCA, seems to have resolved the light, but isn’t at all a good long term solution. Now I need to secure the wire better, or better yet, attempt to reattach it to the brake pad. maybe I should replace the front brake pads? But the question now is if my 86 xn6 Sti calipers are bendix or ATE.

Is there a drive gear aspect on the transmission end which in prone to failure?

I was hoping to squeeze under the car without lifting it up, which I managed enough to top off the rear diff, but it was super tight with the spare tire holder. diff had a copper crush washer on the fill.

I think I’m going to drain the ATF, spray the lines with brake cleaner, then a coat of harbor freight spray can rust converter. I have a filter and pan gasket. I’d like to save the gasket if I need to drop the pan to change the speedometer cable. I’ve been noticing a little highway wobble in the front right. I have mismatch tires up front, so I’ll rotate them for the rear matched pair. I’d also like to change the rear diff fluid.

I like the early AMG cars. That 98 is probably still from a time when AMG was separate from Mercedes. It’s only the s55 AMG on my craigs list, aside from the occasional oddball like a 350 and there was a hammer. I’d love to fine another reliable Mercedes in my price range, preferably a wagon, with only flaws I could live with.

Been noticing an atf looking drip in the front driver side of my parking spot. the transmission cooling lines are looking pretty soft. what are my options?

I’m still interested in taking a look at the 2.2 n/n auto wagon, or a peek at the diesel 5-speed, which would be amazing if non-turbo. I really like these series 2 cars. I sent you my phone number. My Sti brought me from southern RI to Marlboro the other day.

My 05 xc70 is in the shop. Sounded like a cv clicking, but I think one of the rubber hangers is off the down pipe, allowing some rattling . I hope that’s all it is. 190k on it. Those s/70 60/70 R motors are prone to cylinder wall cracks

I’d estimate I put just shy of 200 miles on the 505 today. What a car

I’ve been cruising around in my 505. Using an old TomTom for a speedometer. riding pretty nice. Mechanic said people were all asking if it’s for sale. Getting a little stumble when cresting large highway hills. Easing off the pedal slightly seems to resolve it.

It’s a T shaped hardline. Here is an older photo

So, the pumps are replaced. The fuel line is leaking at the “T” or wye in the fuel return line off the accumulator. I guess it’s been replaced, but the replacement seemed to leak in the same spot. He’s brazing the original line.

I’m interested in either a wagon or sedan with a quality body, and preferably the xn6 5-speed combo, but I’d certainly be interested in a non-corroded body with any good engine/transmission. I’m located in Rhode Island. Maybe I should come take a look. My 86 Sti is pretty tired, and I’d love something worthy of investing in. We should touch base. I might be interested in the v8 wagon. But I’d need to take a look at that engine first, to see if I could fit my hands in there to work on it. Where in Massachusetts? I’m into the p2 volvo generation too. And of course have some Saab stories as well. I’m fairly new to Peugeot. I assumed those wagons were a v8. That’s a lot chassis with 8 seats. I’d fabricated a fantasy of a v8 turbo 505 wagon with a solid rear axle.

I’ve read about a rubber grommet behind the brake booster. we looked at it the other day. I forgot to take a photo. Directly below the junction of the cable on the transmission, there is a bolt.

How does the speedometer cable attach to the ZF 4HP22 4-speed automatic transmission? I’ll get a good photo of the junction between the transmission case and the flexible speedometer cable. The sleeve/collar enters the transmission at what I’m assuming is the speedometer cable drive gear? I can’t see any method of attachment externally. I do have a transmission filter and gasket, if I need to drop the pan to change the cable. I can hear something behind the dash clicking, so I’ll make sure I don’t have the two piece cruise control cable. I’m also seeking information on pulling out the lower dash knee booster.

Excellent! Thank you for this. I guess I have the wrong spare parts relay. I guess that’s the “double ice cube” relay, 7 prong? I have a spare which is a green 6-pin volvo part. we managed to get the car to start yesterday. It idled for a moment before becoming rough.

Is the fuel Relay under the plastic steering column shroud? I cant find it. It would have to be under the knee bolster or behind the plastic shroud. Nothing is visible. There are wires, but nothing felt like a relay would be plugged into it. There is that dimmer rheostat on the bolster. If I cant find that relay soon, this thing is going to the crusher