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Everything posted by NinaYo401

  1. That’s Actually a relief. One of those pad wear indicator Cords is a chaffed up front
  2. Had this light again today. I think it’s catalyst related. Possibly triggered by head gasket smoke. Might pick up an 8oz bottle of "water glass" Sodium Silicate. seemed to disappear after highway driving
  3. There’s a chance my temperature sensor is bad. I cleaned it today, because the replacement I received from rockauto is the wrong part. M14x1.25, according to the friendly autozone kid, who’s hopefully correct. The old one came out with a 16mm deep, barely cute in there rockauto sent a bigger thread sensor, which wanted 22mm. I don’t even have that size metric socket. Figure I’ll buy 6 point of anything larger than that, but might like to have a deep 22mm, and an impact 19 starting to think rich fuel mix from temp sensor to ecu is illuminating orange ring on my dash cluster for predetonation from hot fat plugs triggering emissions or worse.
  4. I could use a front brake hose for a non abs car with a foot in the grave.
  5. What does this dash light indicate? im getting it occasionally while stopped
  6. i don’t know. Maybe it’s a valve. Anyway, no overheating. White on start, then loss of heat. Nothing out of the expansion. i opened the radiator, after only 30 minutes of cooling, and the system was under pressure, and puked at me. squoze the hoses, added a dash of distilled, and pipe wrenched the cap tight. it’s either been burped, the Subaru coolant’s active ingredient is doing something, or the crack seals when hot. Maybe some combination. My luck with Peugeot seems one step forward, two steps backward. Took me a three or 4 point to pull away from a curb today. I should take a look at fixing my steering ram line leak it runs rough at 1/4 temperature. Maybe I could try a new temp sensor. But if there’s air in there, it would explain the temp.
  7. It’s probably a crack in the head. I loose heat after initial start. Changed from a 167 to a new 167, then tried a 180° thermostat, had a little heat for a bit, and now I’m struggling to reach 1/3 temperature on the dash. The radiator fan is triggering, but I’m guessing my temp probe isn’t getting fully submerged, due to cooling system pressurization from exhaust gas. changed coolant recently, along with a new lower hose, and the expansion cap isn’t too old something tells me, rear arms and heads are tough to source. So, I see why these cars aren’t too common these days.
  8. I’m experiencing white smoke on startup, which eventually evolves into pressure in the radiator. i don’t think I’m bleeding it wrong. how difficult is the gasket on these? Do I need the head removal tool or cylinder liner holding tool? is there a gasket between the Maifold and down pipe? Is there much involved in removing the intake? I added a 4.4oz bottle of “Subaru coolant conditioner” to my radiator today and since noticed easier starting, but then I hard accelerated to stop at a uturn and returned it to rough.
  9. Message replied. Us RIslanders aren’t know for traveling far. This cold snap pretty much took the wind out of my sails for the time being, but there’s always USPS. Hopefully by spring, or possibly this winter, I’d like to make my way up there to potentially buy and drive a truck home, and I could possibly swing by if all goes well. Though, I could be enjoying the bra if you feel mailing it, I’d pony up for shipping cost.
  10. Seems to be a rupture if a short line between the ram and rack pinion, on the top of the rack. the passenger side boot over the ram is badly torn. I ordered one. I’ll clean the ram with wd40. But unbolting the ram near the inner tie rod is daunting.
  11. The passenger side 2 piece section of the steering boot. How is it changed? Well, the bellow part is torn, so that’s what I’m interested in changing. it seems the rack needs to be unbolted to do so, which appeared to be one single large nut? i wonder if this would allow me to access the leaking loop of hard line high on the driver side of the rack.
  12. Any insight into changing a sealed beam US spec headlight bulb?
  13. I think I found my leak. Although weepy, the return line doesn’t seem to be the culprit. Rather, the lower of the two short loops on the rack appears to have a crack at it’s apex. the fittings seem to be m10, like the brake lines. It’s a super tight squeeze to access, as it’s on the upper side of the rack. I must’ve nicked it, cleaning along the cleaning along the cross-member at the frame rail.
  14. Rott, yes. My 505 has rotten hard lines, or a leak from the rack where the hard line happens to intersect. I’m willing to try replacing the entire length of low pressure return line with hose, in order to get my power steering steering back. But I don’t want to stress the pump too much, so I’ve been hoping to reuse some old hardline. And there isn’t a good place to fit a pipe cutter on the line, besides near the rack. 1/2” hose should fit over the cut and cleaned hard line, and a clamp or two should work. the stuff my local parts guy ordered in seems pretty heavy duty. I think you’re right about clamps not being compatible. I was looking at a hydraulic snowplow today, thinking its hose looked more fit for my needs
  15. I agree. But is the return hose high pressure? I’ve been told it’s only as much as a carburetor fuel system supply line. if unsuccessful, I could buy a prefabricated barbed fitting, and reuse the hose. The return line at the pump seems to be a clamp and hose
  16. Let me know if you have a good driver rear disc caliper. Non-ABS. I’m interested in both if the price is right. Also a window switch and washer fluid pump. Thanks
  17. I’m looking for a driver rear caliper, possibly both rear calipers. I’m in Rhode Island. Also a windshield washer motor, and a window switch. please let me know.
  18. After looking at the lines, I’m not convinced if the high pressure steering is leaking. I may be able to salvage some of the return hardline, but I could just replace it all with new 1/2 high pressure line. I’d have to cut the hard line, near the rack, and insert the fragile end into the new hose, securing with several clamps. Then run it directly to the pump. the line my local parts shop has is pretty substantial, and appears to be insulated. I hope it’s stretchy. Maybe I could warm it up with a heat gun. If it’s the high pressure, I’ll need to convert it from the m14 to 4an, and I’m not sure if I should put crush washers between the 4an or the adapter fitting and rack
  19. I broke it! The lens is attached with nuts and bolts through the fender. Hopefully the JB weld isn’t too black through the lens. a couple dabs where the bolts attachment broke. Hope that does it for a while.
  20. I can’t seem to find any info on accessing the side marker / position indicator bulb, pictured. It’s not mentioned in the Haynes. after breaking my license plate lenses, I figure it’s worth asking.
  21. I’m pretty sure the failure is the hard line. I’m not sure What size the line is, and if it’s a bubble flare, or what. But the hardline going into the rack. the pump supposedly is an M16 x 1.5 output, according to rock auto the hose supposedly 14 mm Female Flare 16x1.5 Male O-Ring I need to identify the high pressure hard line fitting on the rack, and it’s flare. if I could get a hydraulic high pressure hose custom made to length, with the appropriate fittings, Maybe a 90 degree end on the line, could connect direct to the rack, and I could zip tie along where the Speedo cable hangs
  22. Bought a quart of chevron Dex II & 3 compatible ATF at a yard sale, and had it in the trunk, luckily. while making a u-turn today, I heard my power steering groan wildly. I’d been noticing some driveway droplets of ATF, and made note of having a low level. Down 3/4 of a quart today. 3 reservoir refills in, I headed home after the final replenishing, where I cut the belt. Took it for a ride of the car wash without the belt. Steering gets pretty heavy and is difficult on tight turns. i think it’s the high pressure line, possibly, I believe Ive noticed before how the lowest curved line entering the steering rack may be leaking. That’s where my drips are located. if I take the fitting off the rack, and cut the hard line, maybe I could also take the high pressure flex line off the pump, and have a custom hydraulic line made with those ends.
  23. Well, I’m interested if you locate it. I’m in Rhode Island, USA. I think a bra is a neat period correct accessory for a 505
  24. The new cable was easily attached to the transmission using the closest nut to the speedometer drive cable, very simple. I completed the task using ramps. however, I now have a noisy and bouncy speedometer gauge no ATF leaked or was lost from the drive. I used Synthetic multipurpose grease, and cleaned the transmission end with Wd40. Maybe I should use some combination on the speedometer end
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