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About NinaYo401

  • Rank
    Peugeot Enthusiast

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  • Location
    Rhode Island
  • Interests
    12volt Audio

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  1. That’s Actually a relief. One of those pad wear indicator Cords is a chaffed up front
  2. Had this light again today. I think it’s catalyst related. Possibly triggered by head gasket smoke. Might pick up an 8oz bottle of "water glass" Sodium Silicate. seemed to disappear after highway driving
  3. There’s a chance my temperature sensor is bad. I cleaned it today, because the replacement I received from rockauto is the wrong part. M14x1.25, according to the friendly autozone kid, who’s hopefully correct. The old one came out with a 16mm deep, barely cute in there rockauto sent a bigger thread sensor, which wanted 22mm. I don’t even have that size metric socket. Figure I’ll buy 6 point of anything larger than that, but might like to have a deep 22mm, and an impact 19 starting to think rich fuel mix from temp sensor to ecu is illuminating orange ring on my dash cluster for p
  4. I could use a front brake hose for a non abs car with a foot in the grave.
  5. What does this dash light indicate? im getting it occasionally while stopped
  6. i don’t know. Maybe it’s a valve. Anyway, no overheating. White on start, then loss of heat. Nothing out of the expansion. i opened the radiator, after only 30 minutes of cooling, and the system was under pressure, and puked at me. squoze the hoses, added a dash of distilled, and pipe wrenched the cap tight. it’s either been burped, the Subaru coolant’s active ingredient is doing something, or the crack seals when hot. Maybe some combination. My luck with Peugeot seems one step forward, two steps backward. Took me a three or 4 point to pull away from a curb to
  7. It’s probably a crack in the head. I loose heat after initial start. Changed from a 167 to a new 167, then tried a 180° thermostat, had a little heat for a bit, and now I’m struggling to reach 1/3 temperature on the dash. The radiator fan is triggering, but I’m guessing my temp probe isn’t getting fully submerged, due to cooling system pressurization from exhaust gas. changed coolant recently, along with a new lower hose, and the expansion cap isn’t too old something tells me, rear arms and heads are tough to source. So, I see why these cars aren’t too common these days.
  8. I’m experiencing white smoke on startup, which eventually evolves into pressure in the radiator. i don’t think I’m bleeding it wrong. how difficult is the gasket on these? Do I need the head removal tool or cylinder liner holding tool? is there a gasket between the Maifold and down pipe? Is there much involved in removing the intake? I added a 4.4oz bottle of “Subaru coolant conditioner” to my radiator today and since noticed easier starting, but then I hard accelerated to stop at a uturn and returned it to rough.
  9. Message replied. Us RIslanders aren’t know for traveling far. This cold snap pretty much took the wind out of my sails for the time being, but there’s always USPS. Hopefully by spring, or possibly this winter, I’d like to make my way up there to potentially buy and drive a truck home, and I could possibly swing by if all goes well. Though, I could be enjoying the bra if you feel mailing it, I’d pony up for shipping cost.
  10. Seems to be a rupture if a short line between the ram and rack pinion, on the top of the rack. the passenger side boot over the ram is badly torn. I ordered one. I’ll clean the ram with wd40. But unbolting the ram near the inner tie rod is daunting.
  11. The passenger side 2 piece section of the steering boot. How is it changed? Well, the bellow part is torn, so that’s what I’m interested in changing. it seems the rack needs to be unbolted to do so, which appeared to be one single large nut? i wonder if this would allow me to access the leaking loop of hard line high on the driver side of the rack.
  12. Any insight into changing a sealed beam US spec headlight bulb?
  13. I think I found my leak. Although weepy, the return line doesn’t seem to be the culprit. Rather, the lower of the two short loops on the rack appears to have a crack at it’s apex. the fittings seem to be m10, like the brake lines. It’s a super tight squeeze to access, as it’s on the upper side of the rack. I must’ve nicked it, cleaning along the cleaning along the cross-member at the frame rail.
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