Goce

I've been there, my advice is get rid of the clear hoses and that clear fuel filter, run oem rubber fuel lines, and get a primer bulb. You may have better luck looking for a fuel priming bulb for a boat. One thing i've had happened is the bosch VE fuel pump to get gummed up from the bad quality of the diesel that is now. Best way to deal with that is to add some diesel fuel cleaner in the fuel, and push or pull start it, got a friend to tow you in 3rd or 2nd gear. It pushes the air out and fired up. After 2-3 trips on the high way the pumps clear up. You can see the primer bulbs on my 605, i have 2 of them one before the filter one after.

Joe, sorry to hear about your friend passing away. Both cars are nice spec and in decent condition, but in my opinion the red Mi16 is much better specification with the black dash, and the paint looks to be in better condition. Also the 16v engine is much livly engine, the wagons are cool in their own way but 8V engines just don't have the sound and high end power of the Mi16 engine. Ignition issues on a Mi16 is pretty simple to diagnose and cheap, they are old style distributor and single coil system. You can probably get it going with the old parts you've replaced from your white Mi16.

Looking good Joe, i especially like the banners, they give the garage character. I do miss driving my Mi16.

It's ready for a turbo it has a intercooler, aeromotive A1000 regulator, i have a turbo and a manifold mockup, duel fuel pumps 1/2 hard line for the fuel just engine management and a tune. Market right now is 0 fuel prices have shot up car prices on small engine cars with LPG and gas guzzler like this are at the bottom. I just don't want to see it seat, i know how cars get after sitting.

Well it's been 6 years since i've done any work on this project and 2 since i've started it. At this point i'm debating should i sell it, take it apart for parts or scrap it. I'm not getting younger and i'm having even less free time. Any suggestions?

The switch in the boot is to be used only in emergencies when vehicle gets stuck. The switch applies max pressure and there is no suspension travel. So don't use it you'll blow a line or a seal. What is the problam with your's or you are just learining about the car?

Peugeot used couple of types of ABS system on the 405. Take a picture of the engine bay so see which you have. I've had intermittent problems with the abs on my MI16x4 because there was corrosion on the power plug going to the pump. Also the ground cable can corrode and seems to not work when you need it the most.

The idle switch is very loud you can hear it click, just make sure you throttle cable has enough slack not to be holding the throttle body open. Loosen the two little screws turn it until it clicks, then back it just before it clicks, better loose than too tight, don't worry about the full throttle function it activates anything over 75% throttle.

Hall-effect, or magnetic effect ignition is a must on any old car, makes them usable, manly because the points today are so low quality, also 2-40-year old distributors do wear out. Check your distributor for wear, electric ignitions are much more powerful in the spark department and have better control in the timing advance. I did convert my little niva to Hall-effect, in fact that kit is so cheap many people are taking them apart to convert the other 4 cylinder engines to electric ignition. I paid 55$ for that kit everything you see on the picture. Parts are cheap for the russian cars.

It's hard to say but this looks to me who ever assembled the engine, when they pushed down the pistons the sharp edge on the connecting rod come in contact with the crank. That sucks, also i don't see any chamfering on the oil hole on the crank maybe very little from the factory, but from experience i'm chamfering mine to get more oil on the outside edges of the bearing. Look for a more experienced shop.

The ECU is making adjustments to the fuel map at idle with the engine warm, it had me also worried back when i bought my mi16. if you are removing batteries often this will happen. But when you are using the car every day it's not noticeable, i've only seen it when the weather changes setting a a red light it will light up , i let it idle to finish its adjusting and is good for the next few months, if you rev it up it will come on again, also you may want to check for vacuum leaks, those engines like to leak at the intake gaskets. It's a pretty crue fuel injection system by today standards but for its day it was state of the art, i've learn lots by studying how it works. It learns ( adjusts itself) at idle, on constant throttle cruising on the highway and at full throttle. I've been surprised how much of a changed it makes after it turns it self and you can hear the sound on the intake change when cruising at wide open throttle under a heavy load, the sound gets lower( deeper), I hope this helps you and makes sense.

You can perform a leak down test or just add compressed air to the cylinders one by one when they are at tdc and you can hear where the air is coming out, intake, exhaust or oil cap.

Did you change the oil and filter? I've had valves sticking on peugeot TU engines, you can hear a miss at idle but it clears up in higher rpm. That usaly happens on engines that have been seeting for years. change the oil and run the engine for prolonged periods the oil need to worm up and pump up the hydraulic lifters, it will get worse before it gets better, but eventually with longer runnings and drives when the engine is under load it will clear up.

I Can't see the video, not sure if it has been removed, but this sounds familiar, i've had a bad ground under the carpet at the driver's feet that moved my gauges with the side indicators, the bolt head rusted from water, clean the terminal, changed the bolt and it fixed my problem, you should test for both power and ground drop at the gauge.

I had my injectors mixed i got a wiring diagram and read the numbers for the wires are printed in the wires insulation and got them straight, there are 2 circuits its aprobelm only if you mix them on the odd cilinders.

Hi everyone, i've miss this thread and i've been down this road. The brown or black sensor under the thermostat is the one for the fans, and there are two available from peugeot one for petrol cars and one for diesels, the difference is in ohms diesels switch the fans sooner. Blue or green sensor with bosch conector is the one for the ECU and the temp gauge reads from it as far as i know. The one wire red top sensor with open terminal or bosch connector dependent of the year is for the overheat light on the dashboard. As you said they are all on the thermostat housing. The coolant level sensor is on the radiator under the neck for filling the radiator. I've had trouble with my temp gauge, changed the sensor no change mine was reading cold, and then i found a loose ground in the dashboard. You can add a resistor to correct your reading ether in the gauge cluster or at the sensor connector.

You're a pilot, stop by macedonia, i'll let you drive mine.

The 605 is a tank, the 607 has the same suspension, but different shock absorbers, on my country's roads i'll take the 605 every day. The 607 has stiffer ride, also 18" rims don't help that. It stays flat in the corners impressively well, also it has double glazed windows so it's eerily quiet, i'm sure all the plastic covers on the floor pan help it be so quet. At the end if i have to choose, 605 for weekends, it's more inviting to drive. 607 for everyday commuting, the torque from the 2,7 Biturbo is very addictive.

It's been some considerable time since i've updated this thread. The 607 had its ups and downs, early winter started losing lots of coolant. Bought a used thermostat housing, hoses replaced them it still was losing coolant and it was collected in the middle of the engine V. I did lots of testing and found it was leaking out of the seals between the oil cooler and the oil filter housing. i've replaced them when i build the engine couple months before with generic ones out of a kit but they melted so i had to have new ones custom made out of voltron rubber, they cost me a lot but after that and adding half a bottle of stop leak it's been solid. No loosening of coolant, then i serviced the gearbox again, 8 more liter of fresh fluid that made it very smooth, replace the windscreen and since then i've just driving it. This summer we have had record setting heat waves come thru, you can see 50 degrees centigrade, 120 F and having a car with ice cold A/C was nice. I've had the chance to drive 2 more cars with the same engine one 607 and 407 coupe, they both feel slower, so i'm starting to think my might have some sort of ECU tune. That is probably why i'm having to keep all season tire during this heat because 245 45R18's michelin's just spinn and the traction control is kicking in. All in all i'm very sudisfited, with those 440Nm or more and the sticky russian all season tires i have on it it walks away on any ting in the city.

Use the zoom on your phone camera with the flash to look inside the spark plug holes, i've had good success.

Don't forget the diff and engine oil, It's exciting time always when a rebuilt engine fires up

Check the exhaust for holes, if it's a backfire you feel it slow down the car , and with all the fuel related issues you've had, the exhaust is surly full of unburned fuel, if it was the diaphragm on the waste gate you'll hit boost cut.

Any chance engine mount snapped?

Yeah, that will do it, old school torque converter slips a lot. It's been sometime since i've driven one of those, and i hate them. The newer TS80cs in my 607 is completely different, also i've been in diesels last year and a half and the torque is very addictive. Few days ago i got to test drive a 350z it has the same horsepower as my 607 and is much lighter but it feels slower because it has half the torque.

Much less tire squeal on start then i would thought.