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SRDT

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Everything posted by SRDT

  1. The 405 and BX had either Bosch or Lucas pumps and it was the same for turbos with Garrett or KKK units. The 205/309 parts are not exactly the same so I guess they went with only one supplier.
  2. I don't know that much about Bosch pumps because Peugeot in it's infinite wisdom choose to fit Lucas pumps and nothing else on the 309 and 205 turbo diesel.
  3. The L-Jectronic is opening all injectors at the same time so it's not a problem. Even the Motronic on the mk1 405 isn't sequential.
  4. The TAD99 is nice, the Peugeot cassette cleaning kit isn't as usefull but what a look.
  5. A common ignition issue today is with the new ignition modules, they don't work with a Motronic ECU.
  6. The 505 is at the end of the line, the drivetrain is shared with the older 504, 604 and also the Talbot Tagora. On top of that front suspension is special on cars with ABS.
  7. It's not hard to remove the ignition switch as long as the lock part is operating as it should. Remove plastic covers on the steering column, turn the key on the unmarked arrow and push the small dimple to pull the whole thing out.
  8. You said it yourself, it's not the right time to sell cars or car parts.
  9. Original fittings are nonstandard with a 10mm head and what looks like UNF threads... but maybe it's not. It could also be british whitworth threads or some kind of hybrid made with metric tooling but sticking close to either of the other two standards. Metric brake booster, brake discs and clutch discs diameters can be strangely not rounded with Ø178 mm brake boosters or Ø305 mm brake discs, convert it to inches and it makes sense with 7.00787" and 12.0079".
  10. Look for Citroën XM diagrams, same engine and not as hard to find: http://passionxm.free.fr/images/stories/documents_dossiers/GMP/prechauffage_electricite_CH51.pdf https://citroen.tramontana.co.hu/en/system/files/circuit_diagram.pdf
  11. Those part numbers are for ignition modules, they are triggered to fire the coil and may or may not be in charge of dwell control (coil charging time) depending of the model and application. On your car is it 0 227 100 128 or 0 227 100 123? Old 123 module have a blue cap and are made in germany but the newer ones are black and made in USA.
  12. I was talking about overboost like in the 405 T16: +20hp for 45s if you floor it and conditions are right. You need to floor it every 45s if you want 220hp instead of 200. I think the 505 has 180hp as standard unless the weather is too hot or you're using low octane fuel.
  13. On those early turbo cars the only overboost you can have is with a wastegate that is slow to close. The last models with EZK 200 ignition ECU have boost control but I don't know if they also used it for overboost.
  14. There is more than one ignition setup on the 505 Turbo engine. I think the first one just had a knock detection module. Later they added fixed advance on the distributor and two advance curves inside another module with a pressure switch to choose between the two. The last US models had a Bosch EZK ignition ECU like many Volvos and other turbo cars.
  15. You can try to power the starter with jumper cables, first with +12v then if it's not working try to ground the engine with the other cable.
  16. Try to swap the injectors, bad injectors can flow too little but also too much.
  17. The keys turn but that doesn't open the doors so it's not looking good. As for using silicone, on my cars I had much more succes using brake cleaner then dry lube spray.
  18. The old 2.0 OHV with iron block or the new 2.0 SOHC with alloy block? Do you know if you have a BA7 ou BA10 gearbox.
  19. Your 505 SX has a 1.8 I think, the easy swap is the 2.0 version of the same engine but that's only if you can find one. If you can't find another 505 with the right parts as a donor car even the 2.0/2.2 SOHC engine also used by Renault can be tricky because you won't have the right bellhousing.
  20. You can look for early US model headlights or Morette Euro model ones. US: Morette: US model must use sealed beams but it's easy to find "normal" halogen replacements.
  21. It's just a switch for idle and another for wot.
  22. On my 309 we removed the passenger drive shaft, lower engine mount, water intake, bypass tube, water tank, a bit of gear linkage and the airbox. And finally after tilting the engine we managed to get the manifold down.
  23. You can remove the bypass tube if needed. Just remember not to overtighten the screws when you put it back, the magnesium valve cover isn't as strong as aluminium ones.
  24. From the top? At least that's how I did it on my 309 but let's say that the stock manifold is a bit more convoluted: If you need to change the gasket look for a metallic one from Payen or Reinz.
  25. If you want to tune the ECU you need to change the EPROM chip inside the case. Stored inside this EPROM there is a bunch of code and data, the ECU will verify that it's not corrupted by using it to calculate a value called the checksum. This value is also stored inside the EPROM so as long as the two are the same it's all good. Now when you tune the ECU you change some values like max RPM, ignition and fuel maps... so the ECU will find a new checksum but more than often the value stored inside the EPROM is still the old one. This ECU will just light the CEL and nothing more so many tuners don't bother finding and correcting the checksum, sometimes aside from a higher redline the red light on the dash is the only thing that proves that the guy did something.
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