jmcallis

New fuel tank and fuel lines in the pickup, I believe the previous owner was trying to run some kind of home made biodiesel/svo concoction, the color was of the fuel was odd when it was still in the 505, possibly some gummed up vegetable oil was stuck in the pump and injectors which smelled until I ran enough diesel through to clean it out. Do you have pictures of these egr block off plates installed? gasket or rtv? More boost is good. Leaks in the intake might explain the low boost as well. The smoke is definitely fuel related I've had blown head gaskets before and the vapor dissipates much quicker and has less fuel smell, but water could still be getting into the fuel. I have not tested the injectors, I would like to rebuild them or replace them, but since I daily the pickup I'd rather replace them in one go, i could end up ordering the wrong rebuild kit and have everything disassembled and be out a warm enclosed vehicle for a few weeks while I wait for parts. Any current part number for Mercedes, Volvo, or vw or some other brand that screw in directly, wishful thinking but it's possible.

White smoke, and it hangs around. 10w40 oil year round. Around mid 40s at night. I still have the cold enrichment cable hooked up, I'll check if its stuck.

Here's an album before the engine swap. https://m.imgur.com/a/AXJn6

Milks can look right at home in the back.

Turns out I dont have many recent pictures. I put on new tires.

Compression was over 400lbs on all cylinders last year when I checked, I put in brand new glow plugs a year ago as well. A bad thermostat makes sense, it was one thing I did not replace but I did test it, or at least I remember heating water and putting a thermostat in. Pictures to follow.

The intense odor went away, no explanation there. The low temperature was from the extra large radiator in the pickup, and I have such a short trip to work that it never really warms up completely, on the way home it takes an extra 5 minutes and I have to go up two really good hills and warms up pretty quick after the hills. The smoke seems to be related to starting engine temperature the colder weather recently I've noticed more smoke on start up, it was very brief during the summer. Other than that it's been great this past year.

I got the pickup running and driving and this is the first full week of driving it to work. Here are my problems. Even with glow plugs it smokes a lot, it goes away under acceleration and quits after a block or two of driving. The exhaust itself smells a lot and has a strong odor that hangs around hours after I leave according to the wife. It almost smells like wet cigarettes. My second problem which may relate to my first is that the engine so far is running cold, sub 140f/60c. I can feel warm air coming from the heater vent, I did pull out the inline thermostat and I stuffed it in the new hose when I replaced it. I'm going to cover the radiator for this winter I'm sure that will help. Other than that the engine runs well. No real issues plenty of power, but I am used the 50hp in my other jeep so who knows. I've only seen white smoke out the exhaust which is normal to me at least and the boost gauge if it is reading correctly is showing 10lbs peak otherwise I never see any boost driving conservatively.

I think that removing the EGR is the best option as well. So would that mean I simply plug the egr valve on the manifold and the port on the fuel pump? I was also interested in the rpm sensor I have on top of the bellhousing, I might be reading some of the other posts incorrectly but is that signal usable for a tachometer?

Looks Like I can take the vacuum pump off since I will be replacing the wipers with electric ones. I misunderstood, this contraption which I thought was cruise control does not move the throttle, the throttle moves it. Now that i know what it is I can bypass all egr related parts. Which means i should be able to connect the egr valve on the turbo directly to this connector on the fuel injection pump? I tried to get a better picture of the alternator to show the three connectors. Originally Willys pickups had a surprisingly similar curb weight, horsepower, and torque to the 505. The big appeal though is switching from the original cast iron 6cyl block and head vs the much lighter 4cyl turbo diesel. I do want to point out I did not remove an original engine, someone else already cut this pickup up and removed the transfercase and installed an v8 with an automatic and I wanted a manual with 4wd, and one thing led to another. I also like the idea of an indenor engine since the French used them in their Willys Hotchkiss jeeps, Manhinra used the xd2s and other indenor engines in their cj3b jeeps for while, and Jeep in 1987-1988 used the ba10/5 transmission (I would have used one but they are hard to track down for cheap considering how much the jeep community disliked them) This whole project gets me excited so I tend to ramble when it comes to this.

Hello all, I like to start by saying that I've been lurking on here a couple years in anticipation of getting to this point in my project to have the engine running again. I say running but I only started it then immediately pulled the fuel cutoff wire I had attached to the battery. You can tell I am excited in the video as normally I do not say much. I do not know why the video is so big. This is where my questions come in, although I thought I took many pictures while removing the engine and kept as much of the engine harness as I could, I seemed to have managed to take every picture at just the wrong angle or missed taking the picture altogether of the part in question. The turbo: Correct me where I am wrong. I see the wastegate on the bottom but I do not know what the purpose of the top gate/diaphragm is? I see from my pictures it looks like it directly runs to the top of the fuel injection pump which I thought I had read on here is for boost referencing to add more fuel, I also see this 12vdc inline connector splitting it to go to the cruise control unit. I do not know what this inline connector does since I cant find a part number that results in anything, is it needed? If it is needed do I just supply it with 12 volts? The Vacuum pump: I do not have anything that needs vacuum other than the vacuum powered windshield wipers, or am i forgetting some engine component that needs it? The alternator: I see three posts, battery positive, battery negative? and the third terminal where does it go? Large posts left and right of the regulator and a small blade terminal below. The mystery sensor: I know where the oil pressure and the water temperature sensors are but I am unclear what this one is. Do i need it, I kind of broke it. Can I make a plate cover like the left side and eliminate it? I look forward to hearing from everyone

I bought Pepe's 505, here is a picture of the zip tied linkage.