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About Wales

  • Birthday 10/17/1990

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    Tuning engines and series x05 peugeot's

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  1. Not much, but atleast something. As usual, my summertime is wasted by the work and the little freetime I do have goes with the speedboating stuff... Also, I did got "little" upset because I really did want the 505 to be driveable this summer or atleast to have it start with the engine on the car.. It seems that I was little bit too optimistic on the schelude, once again... Anyway, I ended up fixing the drivers floor section and I did paint the the underside of the car with epoxy primer and U-Pol Raptor bedliner polyurethane paint in May this year. Unfortunately I do not have a picture of the finished surface, but here is one picture of the underside before the painting and one picture after the epoxy primer: Also, I managed to renovate the drive shafts: And lastly but definitely not leastly I did find time to paint the whole rollcage: After painting the rollcage, I have shilded the rollcage with protective paper so that the rest of the passanger compartment can be painted with the spray gun. It has been sitting like this for 3 months now, hopefully I am able to find time to proceed with this project soon... At least at the wintertime I do have more time on my hands so if not earlier, then at the winter would be the latest...
  2. The speedo wiggling reminds me of having similar issue with my 605 and 505. Both had speedometer cable cracked at their shielding and the cables themselves were pretty rusted. Should be fixed by changing the cable, or as first aid, you could lubricate the cable. Both include pretty much the same amount of work so I would change the cable.. Now, I dont know which type of cable there is with the automatic transmission, but atleast there is 2 different types of cables for the manual transmission.. The diameter of the cable end changes from 2.7mm to 3.0mm, so I would measure the cable end to be sure before getting new one... -Wales
  3. Thank you very detailed review of the video. My friend also noticed the same thing about the more "natural" and "open" outgive on the speaking style on the 505 video. I'm sure that it gets better with time when speaking English as well. Also, the garage speaking section was filmed in the first try and on one take only. These English sections did require 60 clips in total. In the first place, I was planning on filming the narratative sections somewhere else, but there wasn't really much options available at the time. By: Do you mean that the exhaust middle section is located closer to the engine head? Could the exhaust be shorter also by the total length? Then the maximum power should be upper in the rpm range. There is so many things realted to the conical shape of the header of the exhaust so hard to tell how they differ. Basically, the more sudden and more sharp the changes on the cone shapes, the more power you get from it, but the power will be more "spiky". Also, I'm sure a BRP does have more sophisticated design tools available for the exhaust than I do. On the counterside, they do have also more restrictions, like noise, emissions, low rpm torque, weight, warranty, etc... Haha, they are just the bare minimum for the expansion chambers to be able to even work somehow I like it very much also Luckily we have also many waterways near, the farthest trip I could drive in way one would be around 300 km and it would be just lake after another and maybe 8 of waterlocks on the way. I'm dreaming of driving this trip someday, maybe with the yellow catamaran..
  4. Today I uploaded a new video on YouTube. It's about installing an expansion chamber exhaust system on a outboard engine. It is spoken and subtitled in English. Please feel free to comment anything related to the video. most importantly, should I also film my Peugeot project videos in the similar way and in English? -Wales
  5. That engine is looking really good indeed! That injection pump drive seems a bit odd, a belt in oil covered area? What material is the belt made from? I think I have never seen such a construcion before... Anyway keep up the good work, this is really unique for the quality of the details. -Wales
  6. Thank you Goce. There is English subtitles that I made on the video. Furthermore, I tried the automated translations for Macedonia and it seems to work, although I dont understand anything from it I also tried it with French and it seems to work. You can put on the subtitles clicking on the "cc" on the video. To change the language of the subtitles, you need to click the Cog on the youtube player -> Subtitles -> Automatic translation -> Choose your preferred language. I hope that the automatic translation does decent job from my undecent transcription Downside is that I didn't find this "Automatic translation" option when accessing Youtube on my phone... I guess I could try to make the translation from the transcript file, at least to French as I seem to have many viewers from areas where French is the major language. -Wales
  7. I finally started to make videos about this build on Youtube. Below is first episode with the introduction of the project. It is really difficult to start to capture videos at the middle of the project as I didn't know what to cover in the first episode. Lots of progress is missing from the video, but I hope I am able to make it up in the future videos. The video has subtitles. Also, I managed to make the co-drivers seat mountings and try on the harnesses. The seat and the harnesses fits really nice. I will cover the making of the mountigs in the upcoming Youtube video. -Wales
  8. It could be welded shut and re-drilled and threaded If the current thread is completely ruined. -Wales
  9. Sorry I dont know the exact location for the sensor for that specific engine, but it is usually located somewhere below the intake manifold and around the oil filter area. As for sensor that is capable of measuring the actual pressure, it should look something like this: Hope this helps. -Wales
  10. Another quick update: The main arc has been properly attached to the car body: Two of the four bolts go through the 3mm steelplate and two of them go also through the floor. Main arc diagonals: Home cooked gussets (1 mm thick, 80 degree, for 45mm tube): And the current state of the rollcage (Please note the tranverse tube in the front, below the dash): The tranverse tube in the front was really PITA to fabricate as it has 6 bendings and you could you see if it would fit only when it did it fit. The rollcage is nearly finished. Some minor fortification weldings still missing, like the b-pilar steel joint. Looking forward to getting the seat attachments installed. After that removing the rest of the old antichip and fixing the remaining rusted areas. -Wales
  11. Oh that sounds really awful. In Finland, just like in France, what is done remains done and the new regulations hardly touch them. In fact, there is now new regulations about modifiying cars in Finland, and there is rough cut between cars made before 1.1.1998 and after that date. You can pretty much change anything to a car that has been first registered before 1.1.1998 with some exceptions. But for cars that has been first registered after that date, you can not change about any part unless it is E-accepted and meant for that specific car. Also cars older that -87 are quite open about emissions. Damn these new regulations suck because they limit these awesome projects.. I dont think they serve their purpose on limiting something that is usually driven for less than 1000 km per year...
  12. Correct. "Taco" type gussets on to the following at least: Main arc diagonal middle joint Door tube middle joint "WRC" tube to the door tube Those are required at minimum, but I think I'll also fortify the rear cross joint. 40mm wide punched panels on to the a and 80mm wide on to the b pilars. -Wales
  13. Quick update about the rollcage. I ended up welding it with MIG as it is much faster and I think it looks good enough for now. The roof fortification: Before attaching the rollcage to the car for good I needed to repair the rusted floor on the drivers side: The repair work itself took 7 hours to accomplish since I removed all the rust on the panel below the floor also and fixed the underside panels as they were deformed really badly. The deformation doesn't show on the pictures, but there is more on the underside of the car. I think someone has driven this thing in the quarry or something. I think I will fix the remaining small rusted areas on the floor after I have finished the rollcage. After fixing the floor piece, I could start manufacturing the proper rollcage front attaching points: I also modified the dashboard to fit the rollcage: Next I did cut, bend and notched the door tubes and fortified the main arc to the side tubes: After this I added the windscreenpilar stiffening tube, also know as the "WRC" tube: All the seams on all tubes you could see from the pictures are also now welded. Also the back tubes are installed and welded. I need to take pictures about them next time I am able to go to work on this project. There is total of 29 invidual tubes in the rollcage and 52 different tube ends to be notched, some of them ending to be really interestingly shaped: Only 3 tubes out of 29 remaining to be manufactured and welded. Only 2 of the 6 attachment points remaining. 10 of the 14 required fortifications remaining. I hope that by the end of this week I am done with the rollcage, I have notched way too many tubes during last week Oh, and about the front exhaust; It should be road legal as the new regulations regarding modifying vehicles are coming in effect in 1st of May and it reads something like this: "Changing exhaust outlet location; It is legal to do so, if the new location does not put the people in the car or the people outside of the car in danger" -Wales
  14. Thank you! Me too as there finally is some progress to be seen You are right. The rules for motorsport do require the rear bulkhead to be "un-burning". I was thinking to make 2 sets of the bulkhead panels, one set made from carbon fiber and one set made of aluminium and attach them with bolts or pop rivets to the aluminium frame. The exhaust was planned to exit from the front, right out of the front fender. I'm not completely sure about the road legalness but I think if that is an issue, I'll manufacture one extra exhaust system that ends behind the rear axle. The front exhaust should be then used for car meets, shows or something like that. After all, the exhaust system is going to utilize v-band connectors so changing the exhaust system could be fast and effortless. These thing do indicate the fact that I do not have any set plans for the car. The main reason to build this machine is to see if I am able to accomplish something like this and to learn as much as I can during the project and to have fun doing so. If the project (stage 1) is finished someday, all the things after that are just pure extra. Anyway, I think I made some progress with the rollcage during the last couple of days: The rollcage is now about halfway done. All the weldings are going to be TIG-welded. The rollcage is going to be needlesly heavy, as the rules require 45x2.5mm tube to be used only on main arc and the one that goes around the windshield. Otherwise 38x2.5 mm is sufficient. I am using 45 mm on all tubes, the reason for that is that I got them relativily cheap because there was only one size of the tubes in the order and I think that it is more esthetic after all. So appearance before weight here. Notching of the tubes so that the joints fit perfectly to each others has been very time consuming and laboroius, but still it has been nice to fabricate the pieces as the progress immeadiately shows. Making the joints to fit each others perfectly makes the welding way more easier also. By the end of the week I am looking forward to have bench attachments welded to the body and to have started TIG welding of the rollcage. I'm now waiting for the reainforcement pieces to arrive for the roof crossing. When they arrive, I'll unattach the rear parts of the rollcage and remove the floor pieces of the rollcage also. Then I cut holes under the rollcage legs to drop it throught the floor so I can weld the upper side of the roof tube joints. After that I raise the rollcage back to its normal position and repair the floor and fabricate the floor attachments. When this is done, I could continue to TIG weld all the allready notched tubes. I'll keep you updated as soon as I have made some progress again. -Wales
  15. Thank you! I'll try my best. Well not exactly, but I did manage to get some progress. The plan was to: Rollcage finished, or at lest almost <- Started, but lots of work to do. All the remaining rust repairs done <- Only rearwheel arc areas remain along with drivers floor. Front and rear suspension fully assembled <- Front suspension is assembled without the antiroll bars. Steering installed <- Well, steering rack is istalled without powersteering, steering column is attached for measuring purposes. Enginemount center pieces made from polyurethane <- Still on progress, haven't decided final design yet. Exhaust manifold started <- Nope. The plans did change a bit in the process, as I decided to focus first on the frontwheel arcs and remove the old anti-stonechip junk from the inside of the wheel arcs. That took 16 hours alone to do that as some of the areas are really hard to reach and the anti-stonechip is really difficult to remove. After that I fixed the rusted areas in them (6 in total) and then I painted them with epoxyprimer and coated them with U-Pol Raptor protective coating. I also made some room for the side exhaust. And ofcourse, I got the rollcage main arcs from the shop. Infact, the owner of the shop was so kind that we were able to pick the cage parts at 8 pm on Friday evening. So now I'm doing the rollcage. Starting it has also been much more time taking that I was aware of. There are just so many rules and requirements regarding about fabricating one. I would really like to get it right on the first try so it is basicly 10 minutes of doing and 10 minutes reading the rules. I did design the rollcage maindesign about an year or two ago, but the details just comsume time.. Now the location of the main arc is locked and the front arcs also are almost ready, so from now on I think it should get much more faster. I'll try to update this thread as soon as I get more of the rollcage fitted. As you can see, I also removed the wall between the trunk and the passenger compartment. I am planning to move it back so that the rear suspension can be accessed from the passenger compartment and replacing the wall with aluminum frame / carbon fiber sheet. For now, the workorder is somewhat this: Rollcage along with the seat fixings Removing the remaining old anti-stonechip below the passenger compartment Fixing the remaining rusted areas (Front of drivers floor, rearwheel arcs) Painting the car from the inside Painting the car from the outside -Wales
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