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Wales

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About Wales

  • Rank
    Peugeot Enthusiast
  • Birthday 10/17/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Finland
  • Interests
    Tuning engines and series x05 peugeot's

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  1. The speedo wiggling reminds me of having similar issue with my 605 and 505. Both had speedometer cable cracked at their shielding and the cables themselves were pretty rusted. Should be fixed by changing the cable, or as first aid, you could lubricate the cable. Both include pretty much the same amount of work so I would change the cable.. Now, I dont know which type of cable there is with the automatic transmission, but atleast there is 2 different types of cables for the manual transmission.. The diameter of the cable end changes from 2.7mm to 3.0mm, so I would measure the cable end to
  2. Thank you very detailed review of the video. My friend also noticed the same thing about the more "natural" and "open" outgive on the speaking style on the 505 video. I'm sure that it gets better with time when speaking English as well. Also, the garage speaking section was filmed in the first try and on one take only. These English sections did require 60 clips in total. In the first place, I was planning on filming the narratative sections somewhere else, but there wasn't really much options available at the time. By: Do you mean that the exhaust middle section is located
  3. Today I uploaded a new video on YouTube. It's about installing an expansion chamber exhaust system on a outboard engine. It is spoken and subtitled in English. Please feel free to comment anything related to the video. most importantly, should I also film my Peugeot project videos in the similar way and in English? -Wales
  4. That engine is looking really good indeed! That injection pump drive seems a bit odd, a belt in oil covered area? What material is the belt made from? I think I have never seen such a construcion before... Anyway keep up the good work, this is really unique for the quality of the details. -Wales
  5. Thank you Goce. There is English subtitles that I made on the video. Furthermore, I tried the automated translations for Macedonia and it seems to work, although I dont understand anything from it I also tried it with French and it seems to work. You can put on the subtitles clicking on the "cc" on the video. To change the language of the subtitles, you need to click the Cog on the youtube player -> Subtitles -> Automatic translation -> Choose your preferred language. I hope that the automatic translation does decent job from my undecent transcription Downside is
  6. I finally started to make videos about this build on Youtube. Below is first episode with the introduction of the project. It is really difficult to start to capture videos at the middle of the project as I didn't know what to cover in the first episode. Lots of progress is missing from the video, but I hope I am able to make it up in the future videos. The video has subtitles. Also, I managed to make the co-drivers seat mountings and try on the harnesses. The seat and the harnesses fits really nice. I will cover the making of the mountigs in the upcoming Youtube video.
  7. It could be welded shut and re-drilled and threaded If the current thread is completely ruined. -Wales
  8. Sorry I dont know the exact location for the sensor for that specific engine, but it is usually located somewhere below the intake manifold and around the oil filter area. As for sensor that is capable of measuring the actual pressure, it should look something like this: Hope this helps. -Wales
  9. Another quick update: The main arc has been properly attached to the car body: Two of the four bolts go through the 3mm steelplate and two of them go also through the floor. Main arc diagonals: Home cooked gussets (1 mm thick, 80 degree, for 45mm tube): And the current state of the rollcage (Please note the tranverse tube in the front, below the dash): The tranverse tube in the front was really PITA to fabricate as it has 6 bendings and you could you see if it would fit only whe
  10. Oh that sounds really awful. In Finland, just like in France, what is done remains done and the new regulations hardly touch them. In fact, there is now new regulations about modifiying cars in Finland, and there is rough cut between cars made before 1.1.1998 and after that date. You can pretty much change anything to a car that has been first registered before 1.1.1998 with some exceptions. But for cars that has been first registered after that date, you can not change about any part unless it is E-accepted and meant for that specific car. Also cars older that -87 are quite open a
  11. Correct. "Taco" type gussets on to the following at least: Main arc diagonal middle joint Door tube middle joint "WRC" tube to the door tube Those are required at minimum, but I think I'll also fortify the rear cross joint. 40mm wide punched panels on to the a and 80mm wide on to the b pilars. -Wales
  12. Quick update about the rollcage. I ended up welding it with MIG as it is much faster and I think it looks good enough for now. The roof fortification: Before attaching the rollcage to the car for good I needed to repair the rusted floor on the drivers side: The repair work itself took 7 hours to accomplish since I removed all the rust on the panel below the floor also and fixed the underside panels as they were deformed really badly. The deformation doesn't show on the pictures, but there is more on the underside of the car. I think som
  13. Thank you! Me too as there finally is some progress to be seen You are right. The rules for motorsport do require the rear bulkhead to be "un-burning". I was thinking to make 2 sets of the bulkhead panels, one set made from carbon fiber and one set made of aluminium and attach them with bolts or pop rivets to the aluminium frame. The exhaust was planned to exit from the front, right out of the front fender. I'm not completely sure about the road legalness but I think if that is an issue, I'll manufacture one extra exhaust system that ends behind the rear axle. The front exhaust s
  14. Thank you! I'll try my best. Well not exactly, but I did manage to get some progress. The plan was to: Rollcage finished, or at lest almost <- Started, but lots of work to do. All the remaining rust repairs done <- Only rearwheel arc areas remain along with drivers floor. Front and rear suspension fully assembled <- Front suspension is assembled without the antiroll bars. Steering installed <- Well, steering rack is istalled without powersteering, steering column is attached for measuring purposes. Enginemount center pieces made from pol
  15. Yes I am somewhat famialiar with sand bending, but I have only achieved good quality bends when applying some heat on the tube. But for the rollcage bends, heating is prohibited as stated by the FIA and also by Finnish national motorsport organisation (AKK). I think the main reason for the distortion comes from the reason that the tube doesn't "run" without effort via the opposite tooling, I found 2 little kinks just where these 2 opposite tooling are located. I don't know the real names for these things, but they are not the die with arc, but the opposite. Backside tooling, maybe? I was
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