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Wales

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About Wales

  • Rank
    Peugeot Enthusiast
  • Birthday 10/17/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Finland
  • Interests
    Tuning engines and series x05 peugeot's

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  1. Sorry I dont know the exact location for the sensor for that specific engine, but it is usually located somewhere below the intake manifold and around the oil filter area. As for sensor that is capable of measuring the actual pressure, it should look something like this: Hope this helps. -Wales
  2. Another quick update: The main arc has been properly attached to the car body: Two of the four bolts go through the 3mm steelplate and two of them go also through the floor. Main arc diagonals: Home cooked gussets (1 mm thick, 80 degree, for 45mm tube): And the current state of the rollcage (Please note the tranverse tube in the front, below the dash): The tranverse tube in the front was really PITA to fabricate as it has 6 bendings and you could you see if it would fit only whe
  3. Oh that sounds really awful. In Finland, just like in France, what is done remains done and the new regulations hardly touch them. In fact, there is now new regulations about modifiying cars in Finland, and there is rough cut between cars made before 1.1.1998 and after that date. You can pretty much change anything to a car that has been first registered before 1.1.1998 with some exceptions. But for cars that has been first registered after that date, you can not change about any part unless it is E-accepted and meant for that specific car. Also cars older that -87 are quite open a
  4. Correct. "Taco" type gussets on to the following at least: Main arc diagonal middle joint Door tube middle joint "WRC" tube to the door tube Those are required at minimum, but I think I'll also fortify the rear cross joint. 40mm wide punched panels on to the a and 80mm wide on to the b pilars. -Wales
  5. Quick update about the rollcage. I ended up welding it with MIG as it is much faster and I think it looks good enough for now. The roof fortification: Before attaching the rollcage to the car for good I needed to repair the rusted floor on the drivers side: The repair work itself took 7 hours to accomplish since I removed all the rust on the panel below the floor also and fixed the underside panels as they were deformed really badly. The deformation doesn't show on the pictures, but there is more on the underside of the car. I think som
  6. Thank you! Me too as there finally is some progress to be seen You are right. The rules for motorsport do require the rear bulkhead to be "un-burning". I was thinking to make 2 sets of the bulkhead panels, one set made from carbon fiber and one set made of aluminium and attach them with bolts or pop rivets to the aluminium frame. The exhaust was planned to exit from the front, right out of the front fender. I'm not completely sure about the road legalness but I think if that is an issue, I'll manufacture one extra exhaust system that ends behind the rear axle. The front exhaust s
  7. Thank you! I'll try my best. Well not exactly, but I did manage to get some progress. The plan was to: Rollcage finished, or at lest almost <- Started, but lots of work to do. All the remaining rust repairs done <- Only rearwheel arc areas remain along with drivers floor. Front and rear suspension fully assembled <- Front suspension is assembled without the antiroll bars. Steering installed <- Well, steering rack is istalled without powersteering, steering column is attached for measuring purposes. Enginemount center pieces made from pol
  8. Yes I am somewhat famialiar with sand bending, but I have only achieved good quality bends when applying some heat on the tube. But for the rollcage bends, heating is prohibited as stated by the FIA and also by Finnish national motorsport organisation (AKK). I think the main reason for the distortion comes from the reason that the tube doesn't "run" without effort via the opposite tooling, I found 2 little kinks just where these 2 opposite tooling are located. I don't know the real names for these things, but they are not the die with arc, but the opposite. Backside tooling, maybe? I was
  9. Thank you, I truly hope that I am able to get the rust repairs done during my winter vacation (January 2021), so that the project phases should become much more interesting. I currently feel that at the moment I am making close to zero progress but there is just so many things yet to figure out and to fix about the car... Anyway I did manage to paint the subframe, trailing arms, suspension components and brake components and install new bushings on the trailing arms: I found certain things to be on sale at black friday, so I bought about 700 m of 0.75-2.5 mm2 cables for the wir
  10. The paint is the 205 noir onyx (P3XY), there is little bit of yellow added to the black in the mix.
  11. I might try E85 once I get her running. E85 is quite readily available here in Finland, and it is pretty cheap too. When changing from gasoline to E85 I only need to get rid of the safety foam in the JAZ safety tank, as it is not resistant to E85. And of course I would need new map for the ECU also. Last time I forgot to mention that I bought an Mishimoto Intercooler and 25-row Oilcooler for this thing. Below is also a picture about what the car should look like from the front when it is finished. In March, I was pretty upset to watch those last progress pic
  12. Wow, pretty challenging to get the glow plugs out. I no longer wonder why nobody wants to change them unless in absolute necessary.. The head design reminds a little bit of the ZPJ and the ZPJ4 design with the chain driving the other camshaft, although the chain in ZPJ and ZPJ4 drives harmonic balancer shaft. So if this engine is developed by PSA and Ford, is the DW the last diesel PSA solo developed engine?
  13. Of course I still have them along with the whole car -Wales
  14. I was really hoping that I could find 505 V6 or even 604 v6 that I could have been able to scavenge those parts from this swap back in the day. Anyway I have been wanting to post picture of the engine mountings that were made for this project in 2013 as I truly think they are art of craftmanship. I dont know why I limited them of the exhaust manifold pictures in the first place, perhaps because they almost cost me a kidney back then (No kidding, they were the most expensive items to this project by far): -Wales
  15. Its been almost a year now since the last update.. The project still lives though, but I find it hard to focus to just one project at a time. Last summer went nicely when tuning an stock Yamaha outboard motor with porting and fabricating an exhaust system that utilizes expansion chambers. And ofcourse this wasnt enough I also found a 15' race cat boat that needed some repairs. Anyway, for the 2019 I didn't get much more done than what is already documented here. For the 2020 I will try to make as much as I can, and I also changed my plans for a bit. The plan now is to keep the b
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