TimV

I put some info in my original post so it will be easier for others to find. https://www.canam-peugeot.com/forum/index.php?/topic/2804-another-v6-wagon-is-born/&tab=comments#comment-21224

I am still trying to locate some technical information from the V6 swap for boostin'euro89 who is thinking about doing one. As I find it I will post it here so it will be easier for others to find. This is all I have so far. They are notes I made comparing electrical connectors between the 87 STX and the 89 Turbo Wagon. The STX had the starter relay modification so the wire numbers for the yellow connector (by the other engine harness connectors) reflects that. Connectors marked "in bag" are in the plastic pouch if I remember right that is above the fuse box The I/C connectors are the ones that plug into the cluster. If you can't make sense of them don't feel bad, I can't either after all these years. The P and H numbers are connector numbers. When I did this project I had access to Alldata which has the factory wiring diagrams and a list of connector locations. You can buy access to it at alldatadiy.com for cheap, well worth it if your trying a project like this. In bag 2.pdf In bag 1 - start - low coolant mod.pdf Above evap.pdf Instrument Cluster 2.pdf Instrument Cluster 1.pdf

BTW, the Turbo wagons had a 4.11 diff. I used to have a sheet that listed all of the 505 diffs and what they came in, it came from a forum. Maybe someone still has a copy? I kept it in the factory manual which I didn't get to keep.

Climate control stays in place, just change A/C and heater hoses. I kept the wagon steering and eliminated the VAS servo. The rack will be a little forward so you use the V6 lower shaft, but the column remains the same. I think I have the stock lengths of both torque tubes also. I'll dig up that stuff when I get a chance. In the meantime, here's a picture of the trans mount with braces to spread the horizontal load. There is also a bolt from the top.

Now that I read Bean's reply, the u-joint is held to the transmission with a special allen bolt. The sedan transmissions also have the threaded output shaft so it bolts right up and rides on the same bearing as the drive shaft. We were getting u-joints from Madhu when he was with Disortex and they were beefier than the stock ones. He has his own business now, [email protected] and phone number is 281-531-5752. This info is several years old. Now I see you have a manual trans, which is shorter, so the driveshaft will be a problem. I used 3.89 diff which is the same as the STX auto, so the shifts and speedo all work correctly. The 3.89 was in the 5 speed wagons with the XN6 engine.

I'm the one that put an 87 V6 auto drive train in an 89 Turbo Wagon. I assume you found my post on this forum of the project? I used the V6 crossmember and an old horse collar style rear transmission mount. The wagons had two different length torque tubes and driveshafts. The length you will need is in between. I took tons of measurements and had a machine shop shorten both. The dimension is critical if you want the rear wheels to be in the right location. I saved that info somewhere, so if you decide to do it I should be able to dig up the numbers. the location of the front control arms will change so I carefully bent a little offset in them with the aid of heat, but do so at your own risk. The other option is to put in the front suspension from the STX but then you have the brake parts made out of unobtainium. You will also need to change most of the wiring harnesses forward of the seats as well as the cluster and ECUs. Also all of the A/C bits except the evaporator. I found a new SD 709 compressor with the correct fittings made for 134a. You will need good wiring diagrams for both cars. The ones in Alldata are direct copies from Peugeot and you can buy subscriptions to both cars for not a lot at Alldatadiy.com. And many of the welded brackets under the hood have to be changed out. I was working on European road cars at a shop when I did mine, so we had Alldata for all imports. Now I work on race cars, so we don't have it. Sorry if this is rambling, but I'm doing this in stream of consciousness. I have been a professional mechanic for 42 years and a certified master tech for 40 of them and it was way more than I bargained for. If you aren't discouraged yet and want to try it, I took tons of pictures and I can send them and copies of my notes if you private message me. I moved since then so it may take a bit to dig it all up.

Sorry, I don't have any of the parts anymore.

I need a steering coupler for my 89 505 V6 wagon I put together (see post on it from a few years back) to get it through inspection. I currently have the V6 rubber isolated type but would like to put a universal joint type in it. The u-joint type has a u-joint that fits over the splines of the pinion on the steering gear and the shaft goes through the firewall into the u-joint at the bottom of the steering column. I'm in upstate NY now so would need it mailed to me. Let me know how much. Thanks, Tim

Do you still have parts from this? I'm looking for a steering coupler, u-joint type.

What kind of steering coupler does this have (the part connected to the steering rack)? Is it a universal joint or rubber coupling type? I'm looking for the u-joint type. If that's what you have, how much do you want for it?

I have some more pictures I'll post in the gallery when I get a chance. They're in RAW format so I have to process and shrink them first. If anyone looked closely at the side molding you can see that the "chrome strip" looks horrible. Has anyone found something in the aftermarket to replace it? Rabin, to get this car you would have to pry the keys from my wife's cold dead fingers.

PM me

When you get old and shiftless like me sometimes an auto is nice. A couple of days ago we had a rare snowstorm that plugged up Raleigh like a cheap toilet. It took me 3.5 hours to get home, normally a 20 minute trip. I was wishing I didn't have that clutch pedal. As to reliability, if you have a BA10/5 to slip in there it could be better than the auto. Diesels produce much higher negative torque than gas engines which is hard on transmissions. The problem with the 4HP22's are twofold. First, they tend to burn up the front clutch if reved in park. ZF came out with a service bulletin which involved checking the seal surfaces on the front drum and replacing the steel seal rings with teflon. The old state inspection proceedure in NC involved running the engine at 2,000 rpm for 1 minute to warm up the cat before checking the exhaust gases. The car would drive in, but not out. Many inspection stations bought new transmissions. The second problem is the valving in the Peugeot 4 cylinder versions; they bang into 2nd gear. Many other manufacturers (Rover, BMW, Jag) used this same trans and none of them shifted as harsh. To get a smooth 1 -2 shift you have to lift the throttle as it shifts. The V6 autos, on the other hand, are smooth.

I have many parts from my drivetrain swap for sale (see my post in the projects forum) Radiator: New in 2001. The hose is sealing the outlets; I have kept it filled with water so the gaskets don't dry out. The level and fan switches are not included. $100.00 US plus actual shipping cost Condensor with fans and wiring harness: $100.00 plus shipping; bare condensor: $75.00 plus shipping Also for sale are most other parts removed with exception of the turbo and water pump (neither feel good); such as hoses (cooling, heater, A/C), wiring harnesses (engine, injection, ignition, instrument, starting, power), ECU's (FI & Ignition, N9TEA) intercooler & piping, air filter box & airflow meter, meter boot (replaced, nice and soft), intake, injectors, starter, alternator, P/S pump, various brackets, ignition parts (secondary wires no good), sensors, fan clutch, fan and shroud, reservoirs, auto trans, and many others. The cam was reground and hardened by Webb Cams of CA. If anyone is interested I'll pull the valve cover and check the condition of it. The engine and trans are still bolted together sitting on the crossmember and jackstands as it came out of the car. The head developed a hole and the engine strarted ingesting coolant, probably resulting in mechanical damage. If someone is interested in the whole shooting match we can work something out. PM me if interested in any of these items. If you are not a memeber you can e-mail me at [email protected] . Tim

My life with 505 wagons started when I bought a dead 86 GL from a customer (I'm a professional mechanic). I got it for my wife when our son was 6 months old. She fell in love with it and I began to appreciate the good design and space utilization. Anyway, this project started with another car I purchased from a customer in 2000 that needed more work than he was willing to pay for (that's pretty much how I get all my cars. In my 40 years of driving I've purchased 2 cars in running condition). It was a 89 Turbo Wagon auto with about 95K miles in beautiful shape. I put it back on the road and about 4 years later it needed a head. I took one off a parts car and had the machine work done. The cam had bad lobe wear so I sent the best one I could find to Webb Cams (try googling that) to be reground and hardened. Five years later it needed another head. I never liked the N9TEA engine, it's loud and rough, so I didn't want to put anymore work into it. I parked it and bought another car from a customer, a 89 Volvo 760 2.3t Wagon. Side by side they are almost the same size, but that's where the similarity ends. The Volvo wallows down the road and has no interior space. I was missing the Pug. We had a '87 STX parts car at the shop and I gave into temptation and put the engine and transmission into it. It sounds easier than it is. I did as much online research as I could and found that a V6 swap into a 4 cylinder sedan is popular in Africa. They usually use the 4 cylinder crossmember so the rear flange of the transmission is in the same location. This puts the engine several inches back which means you have to take out some of the firewall and modify the exhaust to clear the steering. I wanted to use the V6 crossmember and have the engine where it belongs. That entails a custom length torque tube and driveshaft. I spent hours measuring to figure out the exact length so the rear wheels would be in the correct location. I took a tube and shaft form a 5 speed to a machine shop and had them shortened. I used a horse collar transmission mount and made support brackets to strengthen the area (see the pictures). I knew the FI and ignition harnesses would have to be changed but hoped the body and instrument harnesses would just plug in. No. Most of the wiring forward of the front seats is different. I also cut the brackets (for the air filter, etc.) and battery tray from the STX and welded them in place. The suspension and brakes from the STX were too bad to use and since the parts are made out of unobtainium I used the original ones from the Turbo. The fore-aft location of the control arm mounting is 9mm different between the two crossmembers so I had to modify the control arms as well. The parts car didn't have a radiator and I couldn't find a new one or even a good used one, so I put in an aluminum Ford radiator from Summit Racing and made brackets, etc. to make it work. It is 1 inch thicker so I cut that much off of the shroud. The hoses were more fun. Yes, that is a custom model designation made from SW8 and STX emblems. So, whats the bottom line? It's smooth, quiet, peppy, fun to drive. Worth it? Debatable. If I knew upfront how much it would take, I would not have even started. It was a "spare time" project and took 2 1/2 years. I had a lift to use and many fabrication tools plus 35 years experience. Doing a project like this in a home garage would be even harder. If anyone else out there is thinking about it, therapy is cheaper. I'm curious, how many verifiable V6 wagons are there in the world? The only other one I know of is the in New Zealand. From the pictures it looks like they used the 4 cylinder crossmember. Does anyone know of another? I would be happy to answer any questions. Tim