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SSB

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  1. I swapped AFM and the readings were identical. Today the ground at the driver right was serviced. Next will be the rest of the grounds but that TPS thing needs to be resolved.
  2. Update: Used the factory "Pin-out" box and got bizarre results so I'll go after the grounds. AFM was supposed to be >12v on one test and it read 1v (which is certainly less than 12) and another test where it was supposed to read 1 - 2v and it read 8.75v. However, inasmuch as Red has thrown two codes (5 and 6, which both relate to the TPS) I'd predict there is an issue there as well (I don't have the book in front of me so I don't remember what the reading were for the TPS). Anyway, There is a ground tree on the radiator core support (under air box). Are there others I should find??
  3. I am reluctant to disturb things and would rather not take it out of Deuce but I suppose that wouldn't be so terribly invasive. If there were a "vacuum leak" after the turbo wouldn't it loose boost? I remember one race at Riverside where the turbo housing cracked and it sounded very odd and was low on boost. Jus sayin' I unplug the o2 but I don't think the o2 works as fast as the surges occur. I will also do some voltage and resistance tests to the AFM as outlined in the book. Thanks for your input too.
  4. Ya I have (and it's been there since we raced Red) a vacuum/boost gauge T'd into one of the ports on the intake manifold. Vacuum is steady at near 20 at idle & boost is steady at 9.5. When replacing the FPR the vacuum hose was cracking at the FPR but fixing that didn't change anything. I used propane and never got any responses. This all goes back to my original quirry: How can you have a vacuum leak and still show high vacuum at the intake manifold. We decided that the AFM boot had to be the culprit as it could leak there, being un-metered air, and still show high vacuum but the boot had no effect (looks nicer tho, thank you). Got a AFM?
  5. OK, did the timing by piston TDC and while the book shows two timing marks on the pulley Red has three (whatever) suffice to say that the timing is correct. The TPS is correct. The AFM volts are off. Interesting that after retiming the car runs worse than it did before. Meaning the surging and bucking before would subside after 3000 rpm but after the surging would not quit until after 4000 rpm. I could video what the engine is doing as it can be replicated just slightly off closed throttle. I guess doing the Pin-out box needs to be done to check the volts at the ECU (maybe a mouse ate the wiring affecting the TPS?) Trying to get my head around the converter question as I would assume any issue with the converter would be progressive as the volume of exhaust increased but Red runs very well accelerating or floored. It's light throttle cruising it can't do.
  6. Checked the fuel pressure regulator today. When it read 1.5 bar (supposed to be 2.4 - 2.6) I thought, ah ha. Then when the fuel pressure gauge jumped to over 7 bar when I blipped the throttle and stayed there I thought, ah ha ah ha. So Bosch number (it's in the book) for $150 produced NOTHING DIFFERENT. Put the fuel pressure gauge back on an it still read 1.5 but did not go up no matter what I did with the throttle. CO was about .13 at idle but it went total fat 1.75 at 2000 rpm. O2 Sensor does sweep (all at less than a volt). The gauge is a Peugeot factory unit. Being off by 1 bar on a gauge that only reads up to 6 is rather dramatic but I assume the regulator is close as the high CO off idle indicated rich. Anyway after that I looked at the timing ........... the book shows 2 marks. the first one (called #2, go figure) looks like this ( I ) the second looks like this ( II ) yet there appears to be a third one that looks like this ( II ). The engine died way before I could get it to ( I ) so it is now sitting on ( II ). It runs better than it has in quite a while floored but off idle it hunts and surges and pings before it gets to full boost. Inasmuch as timing is the first thing that has had a direct effect on the issues, I'm thinking distributor and I have a spare (but wonder why it is a spare) so I will put that one . However I need to resolve the timing marks issue. btw: The AFM still reads 10.5 volts (should be 7.2) with the screw all the way in and the throttle by-pass is as far out as is practical. The idle is now 875 (hot) All thoughts will be considered as I still feel lost.
  7. This has been going on for about a year but I don't drive Red all that often. The volts being off at the AFM is the tell but the cause isn't necessarily the AFM (at least until fuel pressure and o/2 signal is known). And I have Deuce is compare with. It's volts are correct and it runs very strong. But your right about the fuel except to me it only manifests itself in MPG.
  8. Bummer. There were no issues for the AFM boot although I did replace it anyway as the old boot was BMW (part number 1726326). PCV hose was OK as well as EFE hose). Propaned about today and no response. Checked volts at AFM again and it was still 3 volts high with the by-pass screwed all the way in and the throttle by-pass all the way out. Still very weak (abet steady) idle. Stalls cold and sometimes hot. Check the pre-pump in the tank (early style) and the main pump and they are running. Car stumbles and hesitates and all acceleration modes. All that said the light throttle/off idle is better. So I guess I need to see fuel pressure, o2 read-out and C/O. Any thoughts???
  9. Geez that's cheep enough. I'll spread the work for you.
  10. To be sure, however Red didn't seam to be bothered as much by the indigestion (bon appétit mon ami) as Deuce. I wonder what the catalytic converted thought of the fare?
  11. Ya I've gone ahead and bought the Boot. Spares are good things (especially NOS) It was quite awhile ago that these symptoms started but Red's in Semi Retirement now anyway so not first priority. This next story is going to sound bizarre and I'm embarrassed that I never though to look more often under the hood. A few months ago, Deuce started to idle rough. Ran ok but sounded embarrassing. Then Red starts to run the same way. The only event that occurred at the same time was Smog Checking them at a "Check Only station" (Not allowed to repair, it's a California thing). This was done at the shop next door to my maintenance/repair shop Westside Motors. I've been told by "mechanics" that compression should be checked first but why would both cars do the same thing at the same time so that was the last thing I did (leakdown and compression are good). Checked Deuce for air leaks, checked fuel pressure, checked ECU, changed spark plugs, checked plug wires, even replaced the injectors (Anybody want to buys a set of used injectors? Apparently they are good). No change. Then I went to look at the AFM. Surprise, the air filter was gone. Guess it just rotted away as it was the original filter (26 years old) Didn't have a boroscope and wasn't sure I wanted to use heavy cleaner on the intake side as it could dislodge the burnt plastic mountain that I imagined existed on top of the intake valves. Eventually the engine ran better and I did use a product called Sea Foam and had it sucked into the intake manifold. The issue subsided almost completely. To the point where I doubt anybody would notice but me. Now I go after Red. You think I'd look at the air filter first? Nope. Went down the same road except Red had this uneveness about it. So eventually I looked in the airbox and "surprise, surprise" the air filter was also gone. The rest of it, as they say, is history. :blink:
  12. I will buy this anyway. Spare would be good to have anyway. PayPal?
  13. I really like the dialog we've had here, very collected and insightful. Fun even. So I need to know if Beans boot is correct for Red and I will buy it (assuming it is still available) an after that I can switch AFM's and propane everything between the AFM and the throttle. We agree?
  14. Is this the part I want ?? PayPal?
  15. I know the hose to the throttle is good but behind that, I know it's connected to the aux air device so I need to look at the other end, right?
  16. That's what I was looking for. An explanation for why the vacuum read good but that Red acted like a vacuum leak. How does the PVC hose (and the dip stick for that matter) figure into the leak? Between the AFM and the throttle, right? OK, who do I buy the boot from?
  17. Ya using the connector between the fender and the air box and doing the set up as outlined (PVC hose plugged and 60 degree by-passed) Lets see now, the volts go down as the vane opens so ya if the volts are higher than it would be leaner. The idle mixture screw by the way is all the way in and even the throttle by-pass screw is nearly all the way in. All this points to vacuum leak but (and sorry if I keep going back to this) but how/why would it show 18 lbs vacuum and 9.5 lbs boost (have had gauge on there for many years) I haven't taken the Boot out as it's old and probably grumpy about being disturbed but I did spray carb cleaner all about and got no response (I know boot doesn't like carb spray either) so I'll try propane. The PVC hose (which is asked to be plugged during the AFM test as well as the 60 degree sensor) is good at both ends but I haven't seen it behind the engine, but could you still have 18 lbs of vacuum if the PVC hose were open? O-rings have all been looked at and renewed (had some in house, actually)
  18. Ya the volts go down as the air flow increases. Right now the "idle mixture screw is all the way in (meaning if I run the screw out the volts go higher). That should say that there is a vacuum leak and my covering the inlet and it keeps running would assure us that there is a vacumm leak - except the vacuum gauge reads 18 LBS. I could/probably will swap AFM's
  19. Boot OK (sort of) old and the (what's that hose that comes into the top, anyway) comes off rather easy. Sprayed Carb Cleaner and didn't get any response. What are we doing for AFM boots these days anyway? Making August Boots? I have the factory "Box" for setting the TPS and it's set right (tho I'm bummed about that code 6 (no signal to ECU from TPS but it went away) If the acceleration were steady and poor I'd think timing but it's hesitating. Could that be timing? I put my hand over Deuces Air Horn and it had allot more vacuum but still I could cover it and loose 400 RPM but it would keep running (not much need for plastic). The Vacuum gage is connected right to the intake manifold and reads 18 LBS. Should it make more vacuum? But I'll try propane.
  20. Red's not running very well recently. I've been poking around and suspect a vacuum leak except the boost/vacuum gauge (not factory) says 18lbs steady and 9.5 lbs boost. Anyway, I throw it to you guys as here is what I've done so far. I'm looking for new suggestions or someone who recognizes the symtoms. ============================================================================ Condition; Stumble off idle. Hesitates on light throttle. Hesitates on full throttle. No codes Actions; Changed TPS (throttle position switch) and ran much better coming home except light throttle hesitation and stumbling. Went to check air flow meter (possible lean off idle?) prepared engine for test and got code 6 instead. Code 6 is no signal between ECU and TPS. Permanant fault means have to turn off and restart to clear code. Code cleared after many trys. Preceed with air flow meter teest. Should read 7 ( -2) read 9.5. To reduce volts turn screw in (already all the way in). Road test car. Runs now like it did before TPS was changed. Assumptions: Used Factory Peugeot TPS/Micro switch test box to see if wiring issue was from TPS connector to TPS. Inasmuch as it read correctly I assume the wiring is ok. I turned Air Flow Meter screw out and volts went up higher I pushed the vane (inside Air Flow Meter) volts went down Vacuum is 18lbs assumes no intake leak however carb cleaner around throttle caused momentary fall in idle. Replace O-Ring at throttle body. No change Test drove car - poor performance/stumbles ant high and low RPM with uneven idle Inside the airfilter box, there is a tube (intake horn, if you will) before the airflow meter. I placed my hand over the tube completely and there was very little vacuum and kept idling like before. Did the same thing to Deuce which had a much higher vacuum and while the idle dropped a couple of hundred RPM, it too kept running. Red shows about 18lbs of vacuum. Is it supposed to have more? I can't find anything about vacuum in the book. I have sprayed Carb Cleaner through the engine bay and get no response however inasmuch as the voltage is reading over 9 volts at the airflow meter (supposed to be 7.2 -.2) and the volts go down when the vane responds to higher RPM wouldn't that say the air is coming in from somewhere else. If all the air were coming past the airflow meter then the vane would be open further and the volts would be less. Deuce's airflow meter volts is 7.2 to 7.8 Reds idle mixture screw is all the way in (turning it out makes the volts go higher) I'm lost
  21. Give ya $40 for the grill if it's real good (No pitting or scratches) :->
  22. haven't gone in a few years but I'll go this year I'll bring Deuce and a Peugeot bicycle .
  23. One would reasonably think this thread ended with that last reply. But Nay Nay I say. I am happy to hear someone reply that perfection is the only option. Red carries every reminder of every glove that cut him till he cried out in his anger and his shame "I am leaving, I am leaving, but the fighter still remains." http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdKjEHfHINQ Deuce on the other hand represents what the 1987 505 Turbo S was when it was sold as a new car. I have addressed things that most others would try to fix with spit and glue with absolute finality. Currently I need to address an issue with the injectors. Will I replace the one that is failing or do all of them regardless of the cost. You my friend are probably one of the very few that understand that there are few options to that question. It has to be perfect, nothing less. Even if others don't get it.
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