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SSB

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  1. Regarding the "Hunting": I knew it had to be something related to the R&R of the head and the TPS, Micro switch and throttle plate are not moved around in that operation, but the distributor was. Why was I given the car back with the timing 2 degrees excessive advance, I do not know. Suffice to say it is back and it's as perfect a Turbo S as one is likely to find and remains my daily driver. Haven't been able to get intell of the head repair.
  2. I believe the lesson here is to allow a better warm-up than you'd think necessary. Personally I live half way up a mountain side and either begin my day by driving up the hill or down the hill. No I don't boost my cars up the hill at any time but it appears I have to be even more careful than I've been in the past. Funny as one of the few times I've had to race somebody up the hill before going down when the engine was still cold was in Red. Bummed out one Tuner Honda. Love that old car, ya know.
  3. Timing is everything. I'll check that as the distributor did come out. Not sure timing would make it surge like that but maybe. Dono (Westside Peugeot in Santa Monica http://www.yelp.com/biz/westside-motors-santa-monica-2) has always been my go to guy as he has been involved with Peugeot for 30+ years and his mechanic has also. Jessie at DuBarr in Hunington Beach is very experience as well. The Machine shop is called L.A. Machine (pronounced La Machine, I guess http://www.yellowpages.com/los-angeles-ca/mip/l-a-crank-engine-rebuilding-1970948) was the Peugeot machine shop back in the day and apparently still has the same people working there.
  4. Thanks Bill. Yes I actually changed the pistons in the race car twice because of (what turned out to be) broken ring lands and it was never boosted beyond the 9.5 lbs (EVER). However this car is the street car and when the diaphragm broke it hit the overboost switch once and I turned it off. So The cracking in the #2 cylinder was the temp difference between the combustion and the cooling passage. Brian Holms opines that all the turbo heads are destined to do that but Red (the race car) has never done that and it has almost 200K on it (knock of hood). Now that I have the car back it is driving well except for surging on very light throttle. I have check and adjusted both the TPS and the micro switch and the problem still exist. I'll start another thread called "A Hunting We Will Go" and see what the brain trust comes up with. It didn't do that before so it was created during the cylinder head R&R. Rabin - Haven't allot of intel on the head other than what was originally diagnosed. I know the seats had to come out to address the crack between the valve but it wasn't said whether they were replaced. I'll see what I can find out.
  5. OK, well got Deuce back today. $550 in labor and $850 in parts and services. Feels ok except either the closed throttle switch or the TPS may not be in the right setting as it feels jumpy when just opening the throttle.
  6. I'd like to have a round face valve job (as opposed to 3 angle). The idea is that the fuel/air flows past the valves better without the sharp edges. But alas I am but a poor boy (an a fighter by his trade...............) . Beside, when it's turbo charged it will shove the charge past all but the worst obstacles and this is Deuce we're talking about.
  7. Update. Got a "prepared head" for $450 but it turned out to be .012 under and .010 warped. So that could be .022 under at the end. Forget it. Going to use Deuces head as it's full size and never got hot. Cost $550 for head work.
  8. I'm told now that it is cracked between the valves and to the spark plug in #2. So.....................? TK how much for your preped head?
  9. I probably won't see it again until it's been welded and the seat has been put back in. Level meaning not warped.
  10. Well, yup. She's cracked. It is level however. So L.A. Machine has done a number of these over the years. Sending it out to get completely checked.
  11. Well, Deuce has a failed headgasket (combustion to water jacket). Don't have the head off yet . Inasmuch as when the pressure regulator failed I only hit the overboost switch once I doubt it's related to that failure. Talked to Brian Holms and be believes it will be cracked (the relation of the hot exhaust valve to the water passage making it a certain inevitability). He believes that not allowing a complete warm-up of the engine assures the crack will form. Ya well, even though I live half way up the mountain side the chances that I go up the mountain or down are about 50/50 and even then I don't boost the car up the hill (guess one can never say never, but...). So will keep you guys posted
  12. I've tried to find anybody who will open the pressure chamber and put in a new diaphragm but so far to no avail. So I bought one of Brian Holms ($140US) and all is right with the world. EXCEPT, I believe there are more than 4 505 Turbos driving around and we all are going to need one eventually. I have some spares but one is failed and two are old (I'd hate to put an old one in just to have it fail quickly). The link here is for the "universal" but the pressure canister is shorter and one would have to cut off the original bracker and bolt that on to the "universal". http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BD9BWEK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Where do we go from here (or have you already run down this road?)
  13. Let me know if he has any "good" 505's ('86 or newer, V6 or Turbo) for sale as well
  14. Thanks Jeff. The first sentence of "Circuit Operation" contridicts the owners manuel as it says "Voltage is applied at all times through FUSE F5............" The owners manuel says FUSE F4 which might account for the reading I got from it. So, back to the fuse block......................Well, at least it has power to it, now why didn't I find power at the controler?
  15. Cool, thanks. I've also asked Thomas as he likes to sell stuff if he has it. We've messaged back and forth so I am now awaiting for his reply. I'll let you know as soon as I hear from him.
  16. OK, after that overwelming response............. Dono from Westside Motors says that apparently I have the early version that was replaced by a service update. I have now got both the control units (early and late) but need the newer plug.
  17. OK, disconnected and reconnected the control unit. No response. I don't have any electrical info for the door lock system. Took a volt meter to the #4 fuse (nothing) and touched various points at the connector (nothing). Anybody got the manuals on that thing? Tell me what I am looking for? I hate to just replace parts without diagnosing the issue first. I opened the control unit and it is simply two solenoids’.
  18. That was really fun. Tossing the keys out to let others drive Red was great as I knew Red would take care of them and keep them safe. If I haven't hurt Red after 26 years, who can? It had to be a life changing experience to those who appreciate the 505 Turbo and Red the wonder car. Red just happens to be the WWF wrestler of the bunch. I was so impressed with Jeff Ray's Diesel as it was so clean. And he brings in his son as a new generation of aficionados. Sina's beat and battered survivor of San Francisco's harshest treatment was itself beautiful representing it and Sina's will to keep it a live. That was very cool too. Now I'm just sayin' but the French & Italian Car Show is in November and it just happens to be in my neck of the woods but.......................it'd sure be cool to have a really good showing of 505's there (for once) Brian, Rabin, Fernando, Porter, et all.....................missed ya
  19. That is a good idea !!! The hose between the manifold and the canister has no devise on it but we could add one. Not sure about the physical size other than the ends being able to plug into the existing line. OK, anybody got a check valve (lol)
  20. "If you create a vacuum in the reservoir, and then open it to atmosphere does it continue to hold vacuum or does it vent? Have you then applied pressure to see if it's stops or if it goes in?" If I use the engine to supply the vacuum and turn the key off it only holds for a short while. I have not tried to add pressure into the system as it didn't leak down when it had vacuum from a vacuum pump (how does one have a vacuum pump?). I'd guess adding pressure into the system might determine if the check valve is working but I think it has already shown itself not to work. You know me, I don't like "shot gun" diagnosis but it makes little sense for a check valve in that type system to be anywhere else but in the canister. I guess I was looking for confirmation. Anybody got a canister? (plastic style)
  21. Thanks Andre The system works correctly up until the intake pressure goes positive, then it falls to the (as you say) default position of defroster. I've applied vacuum (or removed as the case my be) to the system from the hose at the intake manifold, before the canister. Then going into the car with the engine not started the air flow will go to wherever I select and stay there. So there is no leak anywhere but the vacuum is being replaced by pressure when the boost comes up. So somewhere there has to be a check valve and I have looked and not found anything. It wouldn't make any sense to have a check valve after the canister as then the canister would, under boost, become a pressure vessel. As I have two 505 N9TE's I have checked both and found nothing that looks like a check valve.
  22. Deuce's air flow to the interior falls up to the defroster when under boost regardless of where the HVAC panel is set (except defrost, of course). I've checked the vacuum canister and it holds vacuum and followed the vacuum line to the HVAC. OK, vacuum operates the diverter and the HVAC directs the vacuum. Where is the check valve? There has to be a check valve otherwise the vacuum canister becomes a pressure vessel when under boost. Is the check valve internal of the canister?? What say you Collective?
  23. 18" vacuum and 9.5 lbs boost before and after
  24. I really don't like this. Don't get me wrong I'm happy Red's feeling better but take a look at the intake gasket (ya it's ripped up some) with a magnifying glass and tell me where it's failed (all tears are from removal)
  25. RED HOT RED We're baaaaaaaaaaack. I gave Red to Dubarr Automotive in Huntington Beach, a long time Peugeot shop and he came back and said ................. intake manifold gasket. I said how can you have a intake manifold gasket failed and 18" of vacuum and correct boost? I told him I was betting against him but go ahead. He called said it was ready. I walked up to Red, started the engine and it had 18" of vacuum. I drove it and it had correct boost but it is fixed. I don't get it. He didn't do the pin-out box so I have to assume the Red has alien electrons. Red has had three failures in his 200,000 miles. Intake manifold gaskets twice (apparently) and one cracked turbo housing (hot side) God it's good to have him back. I think I'll go chase down a Mustang or two.
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