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About robotic

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    Peugeot Enthusiast

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    South Florida

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  1. Good to hear you're finally getting somewhere with the hesitation issues. Even if you get through your bad fuel without further problems, I would still eventually send the injectors away for cleaning to save on buying new injectors. If you can confirm you're getting real Bosch injectors for cheap then go for it- I've seen budget injectors on a flow tester and while they match flow rate, they are terrible in terms of atomization and flow pattern vs an oem. Pictures look great- I'm jealous of your 3 spoke steering wheel and shift knob. You've made me realize my leather interior has been sunburned to a dark purple color. I wish a previous owner would have tinted the windows at some point in the last 30 years. The car looks perfect at that ride height- it seems like much more of a drop than the advertised 1inch or so. Did you happen to take measurements before and after? Since our US-spec cars seem to have run a good 1-1.5" higher than European models, I tend to think lowering springs have a much bigger effect.
  2. Andre thanks for that reminder- that diagram is helpful (as as all of your posts). I painted the glove box, but I'll definitely look into reflocking it once I'm happy with the installation. Looks like my glovebox is complete, but the metal brace (#13) is only screwed down to the dash 2/3 of the way. The corner that sags is the unsupported area. Joe- I had some similar stumbling in the upper rpm range that was cleared up with a new fuel filter along with injector cleaning. Not the fluid cleaner but ultrasonic bath and flow testing. It was noticeable only under load- normal driving/partial throttle the car was fine. The before/after flow testing didn't reveal a big difference. There was however an injector that didn't pass the leak test that did get fixed with cleaning. I've never seen an injector leak profusely- it's typically drops at a time, so i doubt that would impact a running engine. **Missed the point you made about difficulty starting- you might just have 2 injectors leaking. Could accumulate enough fuel overnight to give you a rough cold start the next day.
  3. Funny how things go- I also have a white 405 (love your profile pic btw) and spent a good amount of time in April/May trying to straighten out and clean up my interior. Glove box was sagging, handle and light fixture were loose, support arms were breaking, and the soft-touch coating inside was deteriorated. I didn't go as far as removing the dashboard, so I needed to cut two of the three (upper left was already broken) mounting tabs. I reinforced the arms with some aluminum rivetted through the plastic doorskin, which takes all the load off the weaker parts of the plastic arms. It's back in right now, but I'm having trouble getting the door lined up- like you I suspect someone has been there before and I get the feeling I'm missing some metal bracing for the top of the glovebox where it's rivetted to the metal bracket.
  4. Interesting. That looks different than a series 2 set-up. Thanks for posting the link, if I had more than just a few leaves making their way inside then I'd be more motivated to source the parts to have a factory filter in there.
  5. Savo- you have a PM. Bill- I'm not sure if there was any commonality between the models. I'm only aware of a few Clarion models used on the 405, but I don't know if that was offered in the US. I'll do a bit of research and let you know. I currently have a modern radio with aux input, but I just don't like the look of it, and the sound quality won't be good anyway until I upgrade the original factory speakers.Thanks!
  6. Looking for factory parts only. All these parts were missing from my '91 Mi16 when I bought it. Also need an oil dipstick as well. Thanks!
  7. Thanks. On a related note, how should these two pieces be bonded? There looks to be glue/epoxy residue from either a previous fix or the factory. I'll give it a shot with plastic weld after I paint the grille this weekend.
  8. Yep, I went to home Depot window foam insulation. Looks like it should do the job. I put it around the opening, but I'll check to see if it makes more sense to adhere it to the deflector cover instead.
  9. Screenshot from service box- looks like there is only a gasket meant to seal the plastic cover to the opening. The plastic cover is referred to as a water deflector, and is shown as two pieces in the diagram, but is actually heat-staked together. Looks like a cleanup and some 1/2" foam strip from home depot will be all I need.
  10. I'm doing a bit of long overdue cleaning around the windshield wiper fluid reservoir because the nozzles are either clogged or lines are broken. Taking out the reservoir means removing the plastic cover for the cabin air intake. Once removed all I could find is whatever was left of some foam gasket material, and nothing else. After doing a bit of searching online, it seems the series 1 405 didn't have a cabin filter. Is there possibly a grill or some type of cover that covers the hole from large debris like leaves and insects? I could put a screen or something of course, but if there's an original part I'd prefer that.
  11. How's this for an oil drain plug? Not sure if someone rounded it and came up with a quick fix, or couldn't find a square drive bit to loosen it.
  12. Overnight soaking did the job! It still required a good amount of effort though. Yes- the squared end is what was stuck within the sleeve. Probably a result of the cable binding and breaking upstream. I wasn't sure if the cable slides all the way through the entire housing, but now I can see the sleeve is basically a coupler that the cable drops into and couples it to the speedometer gear.
  13. I'm in the process of replacing my broken speedo cable, and after removing the speedometer drive/hsg, the cable remained stuck to the drive. The cable is broken upstream closer to the dash, so when I removed the drive, the cable pulled out of it's sheathing. I tried pulling the cable out but it doesn't move. It does rotate (along with a metal sleeve) within the drive housing. I'm going to try soaking overnight in wd40 to see if that loosens it up enough to remove it. Is there anything I might be overlooking? I'm thinking the cable has seized to the metal sleeve within the drive housing, so hopefully a little soaking will free it up. I should have just ordered a new drive and gear when I ordered the cable, but it seemed to function as intended until I saw this.
  14. Thanks for the replies. I thought there might be a point at which you could tell when is a good time to change the bearings by looking at the camber, but as Goce mentioned, prolonging the work could be making it a more involved job down the road. The lack of adjustment can be annoying when it comes to tuning, but overall the rear end design seems to be a decent compromise between trunk space and fun handling. Just saw this when doing a bit of research, granted it isn't a 405-specific part, but bronze bearings would make the trailing arm something you'll never need to think about: http://marxxon.com/newsinfo/665.html
  15. Any chance the camber is from the needle bearings wearing out? Were you able to notice a big difference between camber before and after lowering? My car is at stock ride height currently, and my tires are wearing evenly at those numbers. I wouldn't be opposed to a slight drop in height though. Those shims in your build thread look like they move the entire wheel outboard. I don't see how they would impact camber or toe, unless I'm missing something?
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