tulaweb

I've used a freeze plug block heater, in my 505 xd3t engines for years. Starts like summer in the coldest winter temps. It does take a couple of hours to warm up from really cold temps. On cold nights I use a timer to activate it a few hours before I need it.

I've been the owner of several 504 and 505 diesels but none of them station wagons and none of them brown. I think Brian Holm is probably more knowledgeable about the mechanics of Peugeots than just about anyone in North America. Michel Aube might hold that title for Canada so perhaps he would know if there were some imported to Canada that weren't seen in the US market. Rabin mentioned Steffen Moller's brown station wagon which I think he converted, so he would also probably have done a lot of research on the subject. Unfortunately that car recently burned up.

I have no idea if this applies to a 405, but since you have a 505 as well, I figured I should warn you.

I don't know about the 405 rear calipers but on the 505s it is critical that you turn the pistons 1/8 turn before compressing them and then back for use. Failure to do that will damage the emergency brake mechanism internally beyond repair.

I know you made other arrangements but here's how I attached a tow bar to my 505.

I'm not sure where in Ohio you're located but there is an annual Mostly Peugeot meet in Indiana that I think is going on this weekend. I went to the Import National Car Show in Carlisle PA this year for the first time. I met a number of people that I had known on-line for some time but had never met in person before, and thoroughly enjoyed that. However if you aren't in California, It's pretty hard to get together with many other Peugeot owners in person, on a regular basis.

I've seen a kit for replacing that seal as well. I think I recall that it includes a shoulder bolt of some kind so you replace one of the bolts that holds that part on and the special bolt then limits the travel when you have removed the other bolts so you can open it enough but not far enough for internal parts to fall out of position. You are then able to remove the original seal and stretch the included viton seal over the end and into place. I think you can even do that with the pump in place. You just have to disconnect the injector lines. I think the kit also includes plastic caps to cap them off while you work. I haven't done this myself, but I'll see if I can find where I've seen the kit, and the very detailed illustrated instructions.

I think Joe had two of them done at that place local to him in NC. I was talking to Steffen Moller at the Carlisle show a couple of weeks ago about my leaky pump. He says that when it's that typical leak on the back of the pump near the block it is usualy one O ring on a surface plate back there which deteriorates from the heat of being right next to the engine block. Unlike resealing the whole pump, replacing that one O ring is a very reasonable self service job. It does of course involve removing the pump but you'd have to do that anyway to send it off for a reseal. I haven't investigated further but I think maybe it's this.

Yesterday I took the car out for it's first significant drive since I put it away for the winter. The right rear tire has been going flat so I took it back where I bought the tire and they removed a nail from the tread and patched it for free. That was about a 25 mile drive each way. Over the past few months the most I've driven it was around the block a couple of times. I expect to drive it to Carlisle PA for the import and kit car nationals in a couple of weeks, which is about 200 miles each way so I want to shake off the cobwebs and get it ready. I will certainly change the oil in the engine and trans, and take the rack off the roof. I'm not sure what other projects I'll get to before then. It certainly won't be in show car condition, but it will be fun to get to meet a few of the Peugeot people in person that I've previously only known online.

Under the hood on the top inside fender right near the driver's side strut top mount you should find the code. It is often hard to see. For my 1985 Glacier Blue Metallic 505, the code is 1477HBK.

Is this engine coming by air or by sea? I can't imagine what help I could be, but if my being relatively close to the port of NY can be of any help, let me know.

One other point I've observed is that the one piece nuts weigh more than the original two piece ones. If you mix them on one wheel it is enough of a difference to throw the balance off and cause a noticeable vibration.

I did it a couple of years ago but I don't remember exactly how. I don't recall having a great deal of difficulty.

Although I'm a diesel person so can't be of much help I second the observation about grounds.