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Hey guys, Thank you very much for your answers. I thought it was like that too. I think I've already read about it here. But I wasn't sure! Here in Germany I can't get an answer to this question! They're mostly just posers. Laughing at people who want to make drastic changes to your vehicle. At most they change the polish of the paint... Ok, that's pretty harsh, but it feels like it! ;-). In any case, I want to change the ratio. And that raises some questions because I want a long ratio differential from a 505 with more than 100hp. ...and then for the front and rear. So there is independent suspension at the front and a rigid axle at the rear. I will try it! The engine should have enough power (130 hp) for the higher ratio gearing. The wheels are also a little bigger. Instead of 195/80 16, 225/85 16. I wish I was further along. Our house fire set everything back a bit. All the best Jens I will report to you...

My son using the tool to press piston#2 in.

Used a tapered ring compressor (84 mm) to assemble these, man they're just perfect!

I can find 3 EZ200K variants: 5945.26 (0 227 400 033) form 01/86 up to 01/87 5945.46 (0 227 400 128 N9TEA 176W with boost control ?) from 01/87 up to MOD 89 5946.49 (0 227 400 153 N9TEA Wagon ?) since MOD 89 From the outside these ECUs are not visually similar to the Volvo or Saab EZKs, they seem to be closer to Alfa Romeo's EZ201K (75-Milano 1.8 turbo) and EZ212K (164/GTV 2.0 V6 turbo).

Seem at kat versions has this EZ 200 K which looks information from knock sensor and lamda info and has no those pressure switches. I have some factory books about kat version. those are in germany lang but has good pictures.

All the US models have cats though. Iv not seen that pressure switch before and Iv gone looking for it before a few times.

The dual curves ignition box and pressure switch are used on the 160 and 180 hp engines with intercooler and no cat. I think US models should have a Bosch EZK ignition ECU unless it's a non intercooled car.

Don't think so. In US the coil is mounted vertically right there and I dont see anything like that.

505 sedan and wagon differential internals (ring and pinions) are supposed to be interchangeable as well. I’ve never done it, but I’ve heard it done from wagons to sedans for rally cars to get higher ratio gearing. Rabin

Should be same in 504,505,604, TAGORA except pickup models cause those have screw type rear axle.

Should be there? next to gauge sender? Number 3 is switch, note at for me it was stuck cause there was moisture which was reacting with sensor internals and rusted inside.

Hey folks, Is there anyone in the forum who knows whether the inner workings of a 505 differential fits into that of a 504? Or from a 505 sedan to a rigid axle from the 505? Thank you and best regards from Bavaria. Jens

I have seen those curves and information about a pressure switch somewhere before but I think that is for European cars. I dont think we have that pressure switch in america

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If I have my base timing at say 10 degrees at idle then what would you say is normal for me to see in the 4000-5000 area? 30 degrees?

I made adapter from old plug, pipe and air connector. I would check timing and distributor gear play. Also distributor internals. Look with timing lamp if there inconstancy in spark and advance from idle to 4000-5000 area. I made one gear with slotting but it did not make realy difference with dani cam.

The old PF1 platform is probably a bit stretched here. It is also on its last leg, at least for the european market.

Popped back over to the UK for a two week visit until April 5th. This time we rented this 2008-based Vauxhall Crossland. Not very impressive to drive, barely more economical than the Volvo XC90 we drove there last year, despite its puny 1.2 3 cylinder engine, and the suspension was nasty.....which coincides with what a friend who rented a 2008 in Britain last year concluded. Here in the Cheviot hills, crossing into England from Scotland, on a B-road.

Did this head get sold? Do you have anymore danielson heads or cams? I would happily buy one of you

Same spark plugs as a sport bike so that should help find an adapter. Cbr600f3 used the same 10mm plugs I believe. Keebs slotted his cam gear and said it was fine, there’s a friction disk that would help if you can get the right size: https://wctperformance.ca/ie-ekagrip-vw-audi-4-cylinder-cam-gear-friction-disk/ Would also use Nord-lock washers on the bolts to be extra sure. https://www.nord-lock.com/en-us/nord-lock/products/washers/ Rabin

I considered slotting the cam gear holes to adjust it properly but I was skeptical about it sliding around while running, just thought it was sketchy since I have never done something like that before. Valves are adjusted in spec. Compression test is not something I have done, hard to find a gauge to go in such a tiny spark plug hole, but ill do it eventually. Im super allergic to all this pollen so unfortunately motivation to go outside is very low. I start sneezing and eyes are so watery. Ick

Is that with the tensioner functioning? Was the head milled at all? Retarding the cam would do exactly what you’re experiencing, I just can’t say how much it would affect it. (Starts and idles well, moves power band down in rpm, runs out of poop higher in rpm.) On my car with 12 psi and timing set to 12 degrees it would buck violently on boost. Timing back to stock and ran perfectly. I would never be able to run that much timing. You could try moving one tooth ahead on the crank into the mix to see if a combo of crank/cam teeth moves gets you closer. Failing that - could see about slotting the cam gear mounts to that it’s adjustable. Definitely seems like cam timing could be your issue… Have you done compression test? Valves adjusted? Rabin

I'v tried doing this, as in timing set to stock, idle at 900-950 and TPS set right, but the car is a good bit slower this way so that's why for now its at 20. Putting the timing at 20 degrees does require me screwing in the idle screw fully otherwise I have like a 1500 rpm idle . Believe me its scary having the timing at 20 degrees at first but it runs so much better like this. I don't want to push this thing that hard but I don't think I am. It's not like this thing is down 20hp it's down 80 or 100. If blackie has 180 hp then this thing might have 160. I think something thats telling is that the power band is so wrong. It encourages shifting a little before 6000 because the power drops off pretty hard around 5800. Its interesting you say that. I don't know how off this is but with the cam pulley tdc notch lined up with the mark on the head - that puts the crank pulley at 4 to 5 degrees of retard. Problem was if I used the next tooth on the timing chain it would make it be at like 10 degrees of advance so 4 degrees is as close as I could get it unless I was missing something.