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505 sedan and wagon differential internals (ring and pinions) are supposed to be interchangeable as well. I’ve never done it, but I’ve heard it done from wagons to sedans for rally cars to get higher ratio gearing. Rabin

Should be same in 504,505,604, TAGORA except pickup models cause those have screw type rear axle.

Should be there? next to gauge sender? Number 3 is switch, note at for me it was stuck cause there was moisture which was reacting with sensor internals and rusted inside.

Hey folks, Is there anyone in the forum who knows whether the inner workings of a 505 differential fits into that of a 504? Or from a 505 sedan to a rigid axle from the 505? Thank you and best regards from Bavaria. Jens

I have seen those curves and information about a pressure switch somewhere before but I think that is for European cars. I dont think we have that pressure switch in america

Bump

If I have my base timing at say 10 degrees at idle then what would you say is normal for me to see in the 4000-5000 area? 30 degrees?

I made adapter from old plug, pipe and air connector. I would check timing and distributor gear play. Also distributor internals. Look with timing lamp if there inconstancy in spark and advance from idle to 4000-5000 area. I made one gear with slotting but it did not make realy difference with dani cam.

The old PF1 platform is probably a bit stretched here. It is also on its last leg, at least for the european market.

Popped back over to the UK for a two week visit until April 5th. This time we rented this 2008-based Vauxhall Crossland. Not very impressive to drive, barely more economical than the Volvo XC90 we drove there last year, despite its puny 1.2 3 cylinder engine, and the suspension was nasty.....which coincides with what a friend who rented a 2008 in Britain last year concluded. Here in the Cheviot hills, crossing into England from Scotland, on a B-road.

Did this head get sold? Do you have anymore danielson heads or cams? I would happily buy one of you

Same spark plugs as a sport bike so that should help find an adapter. Cbr600f3 used the same 10mm plugs I believe. Keebs slotted his cam gear and said it was fine, there’s a friction disk that would help if you can get the right size: https://wctperformance.ca/ie-ekagrip-vw-audi-4-cylinder-cam-gear-friction-disk/ Would also use Nord-lock washers on the bolts to be extra sure. https://www.nord-lock.com/en-us/nord-lock/products/washers/ Rabin

I considered slotting the cam gear holes to adjust it properly but I was skeptical about it sliding around while running, just thought it was sketchy since I have never done something like that before. Valves are adjusted in spec. Compression test is not something I have done, hard to find a gauge to go in such a tiny spark plug hole, but ill do it eventually. Im super allergic to all this pollen so unfortunately motivation to go outside is very low. I start sneezing and eyes are so watery. Ick

Is that with the tensioner functioning? Was the head milled at all? Retarding the cam would do exactly what you’re experiencing, I just can’t say how much it would affect it. (Starts and idles well, moves power band down in rpm, runs out of poop higher in rpm.) On my car with 12 psi and timing set to 12 degrees it would buck violently on boost. Timing back to stock and ran perfectly. I would never be able to run that much timing. You could try moving one tooth ahead on the crank into the mix to see if a combo of crank/cam teeth moves gets you closer. Failing that - could see about slotting the cam gear mounts to that it’s adjustable. Definitely seems like cam timing could be your issue… Have you done compression test? Valves adjusted? Rabin

I'v tried doing this, as in timing set to stock, idle at 900-950 and TPS set right, but the car is a good bit slower this way so that's why for now its at 20. Putting the timing at 20 degrees does require me screwing in the idle screw fully otherwise I have like a 1500 rpm idle . Believe me its scary having the timing at 20 degrees at first but it runs so much better like this. I don't want to push this thing that hard but I don't think I am. It's not like this thing is down 20hp it's down 80 or 100. If blackie has 180 hp then this thing might have 160. I think something thats telling is that the power band is so wrong. It encourages shifting a little before 6000 because the power drops off pretty hard around 5800. Its interesting you say that. I don't know how off this is but with the cam pulley tdc notch lined up with the mark on the head - that puts the crank pulley at 4 to 5 degrees of retard. Problem was if I used the next tooth on the timing chain it would make it be at like 10 degrees of advance so 4 degrees is as close as I could get it unless I was missing something.

I wonder if the Cam is a tooth off - that would skew everything as well - one tooth retarded would likely give you the symptoms you’re experiencing power wise, and advancing the cam just lessen’s the effect… Rabin

These cars HATE advanced spark. I used to bump spark as well, but it ran SO much better at stock advance (8 degrees), with the tps adjusted. Advancing the timing so much will/should effect idle. So if you’re running 20 advance and have proper idle (900 rpm?) it’s way off ideal. I’d recommend setting timing to stock (like exactly), adjust idle, and recheck TPS readings, then retry. FWIW - Bumping timing is an old school trick on cars without ECU’s - I used to race mine a lot (rallycross and autocross) and it ran best with stock setting and the TPS NAILED for adjustment. Definitely wouldn’t be messing with big timing (or boost increases) unless you had EGT and WBO2 monitoring things. Rabin

Fuel pump is a new oem one. Fuel pressure is smooth and steady and within spec at any load range and rpm. The turbocharger is a stock one, but its a big watercooled one from an N9TEA engine, .42 AR I believe. I have not done lambda readings, but the O2 sensor is in and should be functioning as normal. I'd check it but im not sure what numbers mean what in terms of voltage readings. These are all the things I thought and checked too and so far all i'v checked seems normal... mostly... TPS is adjusted in spec like it should and hasn't changed over the past few months so that's fine. Boost seems to build rather quickly, 5th gear 2000 rpm and not even 2 seconds later its holding a steady 13 psi by 2500 rpm. Boost is steady all the way up to the limiter too. I have yet to do a cylinder compression test, mostly because every kit I find does not have the bits small enough for these tiny ass spark plugs lol. Now about the timing. This is the most interesting part. I have the ignition timing set to 20 degrees of advance. Now I know your probably thinking what in the hell, but it doesn't seem to be knocking. Originally I had this thing set to 12 degrees (which is within spec), but after setting it to 20 I have gained more power everywhere and seemingly with no drawbacks. Heck I used to have it set to 25 degrees but my dad said he may have heard a little knock at 25 so I brought it back down to 20. Also about the timing staying static... the timing advanced 10 or 15 higher than base timing if I rev it up to around 1800 so that seems to be doing fairly normal. Honestly this thing is just so weird it TOTALLY should not be able to run 20-25 degrees of timing advancement.

Does the timing stay static (8 degrees) when engine is revved? Have you done the TPS adjustment and is it still in spec? Cylinder compression on all 4? Does boost build slow or quick? And what psi is it hitting? Rabin

Fuel pump? Have you lamda to read afr? Stock turbo? Stock turbo exhaust side is too small to handle over 200hp specially that newer model which has smaller even than early models. Temp and back pressure comes high when revs go up.

Yeah I ended up just cutting it and using silicone RTV stuff. I guess I lucked out because so far there are no leaks. I actually ended up using silicone everywhere I could - oil pan, timing chain covers n all. Not a single drop nor any oil seeping out, unlike before there was a tiny oil seeping slowly. Unfortunately it had no effect on the cars performance, its still very lacking in power. I took my blue stock 505 turbo and raced it against this thing. Keep in mind the blue stock car hasnt been gone through fully and the boost is lower slightly than stock... At lower speeds this danielson car does slightly have the edge on the stock car, but once your at high rpm in 5th gear it stops pulling and the stock car gets ahead. The danielson car runs out of power it wont rev to 6,000 rpm in 5th gear, which is nuts because it has the original STI diff which means I was only doing around 110 mph... I have no idea why the danielson car seems to have more power in the mid range rpm than up high.

From experience I would say at you need to replace head gasket. It will leak, surely you can try. I have tryed it several times, also tryed to cut that front from new gasket and used silicon in that connection point but no luck.

How did the rebuild go? And what turbo did you end up going with? Is it still stock?